Good Evening Friends and Family:
It's a really amazing to wake up and think, "Today we are driving to Florence! We are returning to the Uffizi Art Gallery to see some of the greatest masterpieces in the world. We have a reservation booked for 12:00 noon and we both looked forward to this day. We have both always enjoyed art and have a great interest in it and in fact we met in Art & Design at the Red Deer College about 37 years ago. We used to sit beside one another in Art History before we really even knew each other.
Now, just a few facts about Florence...Firenze (Florence) is the capital city in the region of Tuscany. It's famous for its history - a centre of medieval trade and finance. Florence is considered the birthplace of the Renaissance. It has an absolutely amazing artistic and architectural heritage. It is incredible to think that around 1500, two great men, Michelangelo (age 250 and Leonardo (about age 48), would have met. Both men were working in Florence during this time and in January 1504 Leonardo is recorded as being present with dignitaries deciding the best location for Michelangelo's masterpiece "David".
After a perfect breakfast, and another small discussion with our delightful British friends, we discovered they were going to drive to the Chianti region and "just get lost", and hopefully before it got too dark, they would "find themselves" and carry on to their proper destination (San Vincenzo, south of Livorno).
Of course, Ron had to get busy and figure out how to drive into Florence, park, and be as close to the Pizzale Michelangelo as possible. On a previous visit, we caught a bus from San Casciano into Florence but after after speaking to a Croatian gentleman at breakfast, we were convinced, "It was easy and we must not take the bus after all! Of course you have to have a map to show where are you!", he exclaimed.
We left the Villa to walk to the Fiat, which was parked under an olive tree. It was windy and chilly again, but at least there were a few patches of sunlight!
We drove in and I was given the map to hold on my lap just like always and expected to read all signs and follow along. We drove along roads with beautiful names like Via Cassia, Via Senese, Viale Evangelista Torricelli, Viale Galileo. I think of these beautiful names in comparison with what we have at home - Glenmore Trail, Deerfoot Trail, McLeod Trail, etc. At last we reached our destination where we would park free all day. A beautiful bronze replica of Michelangelo's "David" overlooked the parking lot and the city. I should mention that the view of the city of Florence from this vantage point is spectacular.
We walked quite a ways to get onto Lungarno Serristori which is along the Arno, and would take us toward the Uffizi. We walked along, all the while looking down at the Arno River. This river is quite unattractive, in that it's a dull, brownish, tan color. Just before crossing the Ponte Vecchio, we stopped for cappuccino and tiramisu to share, at Bar Pontevecchio. This was a small, lively place with giant, colorful, dollops of flavored gelato. The waiter placed our order in front of us, we said, "Grazie" - he said, " Prego".
We finished our lovely snack and walked across the medieval stone bridge - the Ponte Vecchio. Originally, this bridge was the site of shops and merchants, mostly butchers. In 1593, the Medici's prohibited butchers from further selling at that location. Gold merchants moved in, and remain to this day. You can walk along this bridge, and that's all you see - jewellery shops selling gold, silver and Rolex watches. One or two lone artist sit along the way painting watercolours.
So, after crossing the bridge, we came onto Piazzale degli Uffizi. We were a bit early, so we walked around the Piazza Della Signoria admiring great sculptures. There is a stunning sculpture of Neptune, which takes your breath away. Sadly, there were giant tour groups which suddenly appeared in great clumps, and then disappeared as quickly as they came. Gypsies in colourful clothing were busy circulating through the crowds with the plastic cups.
Our time came to enter the Uffizi, and we were stunned again at works of art by Rembrandt, Carravagio, Peter Paul Ruebens, Leonardo Da Vinci, Albert Duerr, Michelangelo, Sandro Botticelli. This Gallery houses "The Birth of Venus" (by Botticelli). After 3 hours of wandering around, we decided it was time to move along, so off we went to Caffe Castelvecchi on Piazza del Signoria for bruschetta.
We left there and had to stop in the Duomo. There were lots of people in the cathedral. A loud voice came over the speakers, commanding, "Seelance, Seelance!..Silence. Ssshhhhhh!"
Leaving the Duomo, we walked back across the Ponte Vecchio. This time, there were several people lining the bridge selling squishy toys. There were huge numbers of people everywhere, and this gets very tiring, but when you're tired you can always take a break, by stopping back at the Bar Pontevecchio for chocolate, hazlenut and pistachio gelato. And while sitting there, you'll most likely see a pigeon fly through or something silly like people trying on elephant hats (complete with trunk and tusks).
At least by this time, it was brilliantly sunny. We could hear the most beautiful classical music filling the air - the music of Andrea Bocelli. A man sat playing guitar, and many people stood mesmerized by this music.
On the way back to the car, we could hear the bells of Basilica of Santa Croce clanging away. Santa Croce is the burial place of Michelangelo and Galileo. Fortunately, we had visited this Basilica once before, so we did not return this time. A lady drove by on a bicycle wearing high heels. Weary tourists passed us, looking depressed before they even got to their destination.
Finally, we reached our car, feet aching once again. We've decided we love looking at cobblestone, but don't really like walking on it. We could hear a lady singing, "I Don't Know How to Love Him!" while paying guitar in the parking lot.
As we drove out of Florence, we both said, what a gorgeous city it is, especially when you are out of the busy, touristy areas. Its a city full of elegance and lush beauty. The word that will always come to my mind when I think about Florence? Elegance.
Friday 31 May 2013
Thursday 30 May 2013
San Casciano, Empoli and dinner at Cinque di Vino
Buonasera (Good Evening) Family and Friends:
I would like to start by just saying a few words about San Casciano in Val di Pesa. It's referred to as a commune in the province of Florence. It's in the heart of the Chianti area, which is a region famous for its wine and olive oil. It's pleasant here, because you have easy access to Florence without a lot of the tourist activity -and that's why we wanted to come back here again.
It's hard to describe Villa il Poggiale. It is like a very large estate home high up on a hilly area. There is a pool on the property, although it's far too chilly for the pool. Our room has huge wooden beams in the ceiling, running along the expanse of the room. It's spacious with a lovely view out the window onto the hills - and we couldn't be happier.
I thought I'd wake up to roosters crowing somewhere this morning, because I remember this from our last stay - listening to squawky roosters, some of which didn't even know how to crow properly. Instead, I woke up to pigeons (doves, some would say), cooing out the window. As a point of interest, did you know these birds don't have gall bladders - and if you were a medieval naturalist, you would have known that because the birds lacked bile (one of the four humours, this explained the sweet disposition of the doves. (I know what you're thinking..."Who cares?").
Moving on...breakfast was in a large, lovely, elegant room. Classical music played in the background and there was a beautiful array of fruits, breads, meats and cheeses. It was such a pleasant experience. I stayed warm the whole time. You actually felt you could converse with other humans here, and I didn't have to rip open any packages to get my breakfast out. One thing lacking - Nutella.
During breakfast, we met a young couple from New Mexico who were touring a bit of Italy on a rented Ducati motorcycle. They were anxious to leave right after breakfast, but it was pouring rain, thundering and very chilly. Everyone had to wait around for the downpour to subside. During this time, we met a couple from Croatia, who were anxiously trying to call their daughter to find out how she liked her new jacket, (which they paid 800 euro for. "Leather on the outside, fur on the inside".
Soon the rain subsided a bit, and we decided it was a good idea to break out of the Villa, where by this time, numerous excited children ran the halls and banged on doors. As we walked past the front desk, I heard a British accent loudly proclaiming, "We have no electricity - none whatsoever! Our room is dark - dark, I say! Yes - Room 8!" and of course the staff immediately sent the electrician (who happened to be meandering around chatting with Monica at the desk), on this most serious of missions. I had to force myself not to look back at this exasperated fellow, standing at the desk in his flannel pjs, dressing gown, tousled hair, and fuzzy slippers.
We left this unhappy situation, popped our umbrellas open and rushed towards, the little Fiat. We heard there was an open market in Empoli. Ron asked, "Should we drive to Empoli? "Sure,"I said. So you can imagine my surprise, when I discovered we were suddenly looking for a parking spot in San Casciano. "What on earth?" I said. I discovered that Ron had forgotten we were going to Empoli. At any rate, we parked and with umbrellas open, walked along freezing our buns off, until we came across a cafe with the door open, called Moka Arra. The radio blared away in Italian, but then we'd hear a Beatle song, or even Sting, inserted into the mix every once in awhile. Soon a large group of locals came in, and loud conversation ensued.
Anxious to get to the open market at Empoli, I marched through the parking lot ahead and went and stood by the door of the Fiat. As I saw Ron's head coming over the hilltop, I yelled, "Ron - Open The Door!" He said he would, only it wasn't our car. That car I stood by happened to be a Peugot. But he could see the car was silver, and understood why I got mixed up.
Well anyway, we drove around Empoli, this way and that, until we finally happened upon an enormous outdoor market. One thing we do remember from a previous visit, was that there are no malls here containing endless chain stores. At these markets, you will see large amounts of clothing and shoes, wigs, along with wonderful meats, cheeses, vegetables and fruits, flowers and herbs. It's like the stores just come to the people.
We left Empoli, as it started to rain again, and drove back to Villa il Poggiale to enjoy a few of the snacks we had purchased at the market, (small, red tomatoes from Sicily, and some bread and cheese). When we came in the door at Villa il Poggiale, it was into a very rich, warm, inviting atmosphere with classical music playing in the background.
After our little snack, I was dying to get out the door again and take a drive to the ancient hilltop village of Volterra. (These ancient hilltop villages are very common -and at different points in history, their location is what kept the people safe from invading enemies). The wind however, was absolutely howling outside, so we decided to spend the afternoon at the Villa, before going out to our dinner reservation this evening at Cinque di Vino, in San Casciano. We met a British couple from Kent (Sherry and Steve) and had the greatest time visiting in the beautiful sitting room.
We went back to our room, got ready for dinner and drove into town to the restaurant, Cinque di Vino. It was a wonderful experience to see Marco, the Chef, once again. He helped us with food choices. I had wild boar tagliatelle, and Ron had the Florentine steak, for which the tiny restaurant is known. Marco is a delightful person, and was personal and interactive with the guests all evening. When he heard that I had asked Monica, the waitress, what was in the very tall, exquisitely shaped bottle sitting on the counter, he and a few of the staff gathered together and presented it to me...just before we left the restaurant.
So, we walked back to the car, and believe or not, we could hear the beautiful sound of bells clanging from at least three different churches...
I would like to start by just saying a few words about San Casciano in Val di Pesa. It's referred to as a commune in the province of Florence. It's in the heart of the Chianti area, which is a region famous for its wine and olive oil. It's pleasant here, because you have easy access to Florence without a lot of the tourist activity -and that's why we wanted to come back here again.
It's hard to describe Villa il Poggiale. It is like a very large estate home high up on a hilly area. There is a pool on the property, although it's far too chilly for the pool. Our room has huge wooden beams in the ceiling, running along the expanse of the room. It's spacious with a lovely view out the window onto the hills - and we couldn't be happier.
I thought I'd wake up to roosters crowing somewhere this morning, because I remember this from our last stay - listening to squawky roosters, some of which didn't even know how to crow properly. Instead, I woke up to pigeons (doves, some would say), cooing out the window. As a point of interest, did you know these birds don't have gall bladders - and if you were a medieval naturalist, you would have known that because the birds lacked bile (one of the four humours, this explained the sweet disposition of the doves. (I know what you're thinking..."Who cares?").
Moving on...breakfast was in a large, lovely, elegant room. Classical music played in the background and there was a beautiful array of fruits, breads, meats and cheeses. It was such a pleasant experience. I stayed warm the whole time. You actually felt you could converse with other humans here, and I didn't have to rip open any packages to get my breakfast out. One thing lacking - Nutella.
During breakfast, we met a young couple from New Mexico who were touring a bit of Italy on a rented Ducati motorcycle. They were anxious to leave right after breakfast, but it was pouring rain, thundering and very chilly. Everyone had to wait around for the downpour to subside. During this time, we met a couple from Croatia, who were anxiously trying to call their daughter to find out how she liked her new jacket, (which they paid 800 euro for. "Leather on the outside, fur on the inside".
Soon the rain subsided a bit, and we decided it was a good idea to break out of the Villa, where by this time, numerous excited children ran the halls and banged on doors. As we walked past the front desk, I heard a British accent loudly proclaiming, "We have no electricity - none whatsoever! Our room is dark - dark, I say! Yes - Room 8!" and of course the staff immediately sent the electrician (who happened to be meandering around chatting with Monica at the desk), on this most serious of missions. I had to force myself not to look back at this exasperated fellow, standing at the desk in his flannel pjs, dressing gown, tousled hair, and fuzzy slippers.
We left this unhappy situation, popped our umbrellas open and rushed towards, the little Fiat. We heard there was an open market in Empoli. Ron asked, "Should we drive to Empoli? "Sure,"I said. So you can imagine my surprise, when I discovered we were suddenly looking for a parking spot in San Casciano. "What on earth?" I said. I discovered that Ron had forgotten we were going to Empoli. At any rate, we parked and with umbrellas open, walked along freezing our buns off, until we came across a cafe with the door open, called Moka Arra. The radio blared away in Italian, but then we'd hear a Beatle song, or even Sting, inserted into the mix every once in awhile. Soon a large group of locals came in, and loud conversation ensued.
Anxious to get to the open market at Empoli, I marched through the parking lot ahead and went and stood by the door of the Fiat. As I saw Ron's head coming over the hilltop, I yelled, "Ron - Open The Door!" He said he would, only it wasn't our car. That car I stood by happened to be a Peugot. But he could see the car was silver, and understood why I got mixed up.
Well anyway, we drove around Empoli, this way and that, until we finally happened upon an enormous outdoor market. One thing we do remember from a previous visit, was that there are no malls here containing endless chain stores. At these markets, you will see large amounts of clothing and shoes, wigs, along with wonderful meats, cheeses, vegetables and fruits, flowers and herbs. It's like the stores just come to the people.
We left Empoli, as it started to rain again, and drove back to Villa il Poggiale to enjoy a few of the snacks we had purchased at the market, (small, red tomatoes from Sicily, and some bread and cheese). When we came in the door at Villa il Poggiale, it was into a very rich, warm, inviting atmosphere with classical music playing in the background.
After our little snack, I was dying to get out the door again and take a drive to the ancient hilltop village of Volterra. (These ancient hilltop villages are very common -and at different points in history, their location is what kept the people safe from invading enemies). The wind however, was absolutely howling outside, so we decided to spend the afternoon at the Villa, before going out to our dinner reservation this evening at Cinque di Vino, in San Casciano. We met a British couple from Kent (Sherry and Steve) and had the greatest time visiting in the beautiful sitting room.
We went back to our room, got ready for dinner and drove into town to the restaurant, Cinque di Vino. It was a wonderful experience to see Marco, the Chef, once again. He helped us with food choices. I had wild boar tagliatelle, and Ron had the Florentine steak, for which the tiny restaurant is known. Marco is a delightful person, and was personal and interactive with the guests all evening. When he heard that I had asked Monica, the waitress, what was in the very tall, exquisitely shaped bottle sitting on the counter, he and a few of the staff gathered together and presented it to me...just before we left the restaurant.
So, we walked back to the car, and believe or not, we could hear the beautiful sound of bells clanging from at least three different churches...
Wednesday 29 May 2013
Decugnano Dei Barbi Estate Winery Tour and Cooking Lesson
Good Evening Family and Friends:
When I arose this morning, I looked out the windows to our breathtaking view, and just listened to the incredible twittering of birds everywhere. It's heavenly here, and that's all I can say about the view from Room 204, at Villa Mercedes.
We went downstairs for our last breakfast at Villa Mercedes. Sweet Father Dino greeted us in the same way and ushered us into the chilly breakfast room. I figured out that what would make this room feel really complete, would be a few tin knights along the walls. (The kind where you want to walk over and lift up the mask to see if there really is anyone alive in there or not). As I sat down, shivering away, I realized I had gained a new love for Nutella (chocolate icing you put on toast), and packaged pastries.
But in fairness, we did enjoy our stay here, and were quite comfortable. And really - when it takes less than 90 seconds to walk to the Duomo, what else could could you ask for, besides free parking (which we also had). So, we checked out and went for one last espresso on the Piazza Del Duomo at Hescanas Caffetteria, (you may wonder about the spelling, but I spell these places as they really are spelled). We noted that tour groups were already gathering in clumps around the Piazza.
We left and started our 9 km drive to Decugnano Dei Barbi Estate. The Fiat zipped along around windy roads, past lush vineyards, as we climbed higher and soon we could see Orvieto off in the distance. We stopped to take a few pictures and drank in the beauty and peacefulness of the area.
We arrived at Decugnano Dei Barbi Estate for our 10:00 am meeting time with Anna Rita, Public Relations person for the Estate, and discovered our lesson and tour would be a private one! Anna began our tour by talking about the geological history of the area, as well as the history of the monks in the region. She explained that it was the monks who started making wine and selling it, (not drinking it - only selling it. We all smiled at this. After an hour long tour and patient explanation of the process and production of 9,000 bottles of wine a year, Anna led us to the kitchen, where we began our cooking lesson with Rosalina. Rosalina speaks Italian only, but Anna stayed to interpret and help out. I so enjoyed this lesson! Ron put an apron on and did his best. When we got going with the lesson, he kept tasting things, like the raw dough, or a piece of parsley that fell somewhere. Rosalina laughed in a jolly way each time and encouraged him.
First, we donned our special black aprons (which were ours to keep). We started by making pizza dough. This was so much fun...and it's just so easy while you're watching a professional. Then you try it yourself and it's hard work. I found out that kneading dough properly is a skill which must be learned by practice. Any machine to help you speed up the process is just not allowed. Rosalina patiently worked with us, smiling at our incompetence from time to time. While the pizza dough was rising, we practiced making pasta dough. Ron kept falling behind, and needed quite a lot of assistance. I was so happy to be working along side an Italian cook to learn these fundamentals of Italian cuisine. I could even feel when the dough got to the right consistency. When the pasta dough was left to rest, Ron decided to expound upon the fact that his family were farmers in the High Prairie area. (I think he felt suddenly inspired by Anna talking about the grape industry. The good thing is, Ron stopped when I gave him a look which he interpreted as, "Are you kidding?" or "Did you forget where you are?" You know, that kind of look you give your husband, when you can't believe what he just came up with...
So, we continued on with the lesson, cutting up vegetables in season - asparagus, tomatoes, and peas. Whatever is in season, goes into the pasta dish. We then mixed sausage with a few ingredients and put the mixture in carved out zucchinis to bake. After that, we made special cookie dough, which we formed into rings. When baked, these cookies were to be dipped in a dessert wine from the Decugnano Estate. I looked over at Ron's cookie station, and thought his looked good enough to be sold at the Calgary Stampede.
When the pizza dough had risen, we patted it out and made pizza marguerita and pizza marinara and focaccia. Then we rolled out the pasta dough, and cut it into wide strips of no specific design, which Ron really enjoyed.
After all our hard work in the kitchen, Anna seated us at a long, wooden table with two place settings, in a room that looked like an old chapel. We could look out the glass doors, and see Orvieto in the distance.
From the kitchen, Anna first served us our baked focaccia, and pizzas, along with wine pairing. It was thoroughly enjoyable and delicious. Then out came the pasta dish with the cooked, fresh vegetables, and Anna did further wine pairing.
As a side note, we found Anna an absolutely fascinating hostes, and a very interesting person. Not only does she have a Masters in Art History from London, but she is a certified Sommelier, (trained in Rome), and now enrolled (for 2.5 years) in another program to become a trained connoisseur (critic) of wine and food. She has a husband who works and travels, 3 children at home, a busy career, and says there is still time to make pasta at home at least once a week. Regarding the cooking of Italian cuisine, Anna says, it is simple..."you grow up watching your mother cook, and then - you just cook like her".
We finished off with the crunchy cookies, which had one whole cup of olive oil in the dough. Delicious.
When this delightful food and drink experience was over,I wanted to put my head down on the table and start snoring - but instead we had to drive for 2 hours, to our B&B in San Casciano (our next destination),just outside of Florence. We said, "Arriverderci" to Anna, and off we drove in the trusty Fiat, listening to Italian staticky radio the whole way.
Driving along the A1 we missed our proper turn off due to construction, and ended up in Florence fighting our way through traffic to get back out,(Ron found this quite exasperating, as he seldom goes off course). However, he did successfully get us back on track. This experience took approximately one hour, but we finally reached our B&B Villa il Poggiale, in San Casciano in val di Pesa at around 7:00 pm. We have been here once before and were so happy to be back.
We are staying around the Villa this evening, to plan out our day tomorrow. It is so chilly, you wouldn't believe it. Apparently it's the coldest spring weather they've experienced in 60 years...
When I arose this morning, I looked out the windows to our breathtaking view, and just listened to the incredible twittering of birds everywhere. It's heavenly here, and that's all I can say about the view from Room 204, at Villa Mercedes.
We went downstairs for our last breakfast at Villa Mercedes. Sweet Father Dino greeted us in the same way and ushered us into the chilly breakfast room. I figured out that what would make this room feel really complete, would be a few tin knights along the walls. (The kind where you want to walk over and lift up the mask to see if there really is anyone alive in there or not). As I sat down, shivering away, I realized I had gained a new love for Nutella (chocolate icing you put on toast), and packaged pastries.
But in fairness, we did enjoy our stay here, and were quite comfortable. And really - when it takes less than 90 seconds to walk to the Duomo, what else could could you ask for, besides free parking (which we also had). So, we checked out and went for one last espresso on the Piazza Del Duomo at Hescanas Caffetteria, (you may wonder about the spelling, but I spell these places as they really are spelled). We noted that tour groups were already gathering in clumps around the Piazza.
We left and started our 9 km drive to Decugnano Dei Barbi Estate. The Fiat zipped along around windy roads, past lush vineyards, as we climbed higher and soon we could see Orvieto off in the distance. We stopped to take a few pictures and drank in the beauty and peacefulness of the area.
We arrived at Decugnano Dei Barbi Estate for our 10:00 am meeting time with Anna Rita, Public Relations person for the Estate, and discovered our lesson and tour would be a private one! Anna began our tour by talking about the geological history of the area, as well as the history of the monks in the region. She explained that it was the monks who started making wine and selling it, (not drinking it - only selling it. We all smiled at this. After an hour long tour and patient explanation of the process and production of 9,000 bottles of wine a year, Anna led us to the kitchen, where we began our cooking lesson with Rosalina. Rosalina speaks Italian only, but Anna stayed to interpret and help out. I so enjoyed this lesson! Ron put an apron on and did his best. When we got going with the lesson, he kept tasting things, like the raw dough, or a piece of parsley that fell somewhere. Rosalina laughed in a jolly way each time and encouraged him.
First, we donned our special black aprons (which were ours to keep). We started by making pizza dough. This was so much fun...and it's just so easy while you're watching a professional. Then you try it yourself and it's hard work. I found out that kneading dough properly is a skill which must be learned by practice. Any machine to help you speed up the process is just not allowed. Rosalina patiently worked with us, smiling at our incompetence from time to time. While the pizza dough was rising, we practiced making pasta dough. Ron kept falling behind, and needed quite a lot of assistance. I was so happy to be working along side an Italian cook to learn these fundamentals of Italian cuisine. I could even feel when the dough got to the right consistency. When the pasta dough was left to rest, Ron decided to expound upon the fact that his family were farmers in the High Prairie area. (I think he felt suddenly inspired by Anna talking about the grape industry. The good thing is, Ron stopped when I gave him a look which he interpreted as, "Are you kidding?" or "Did you forget where you are?" You know, that kind of look you give your husband, when you can't believe what he just came up with...
So, we continued on with the lesson, cutting up vegetables in season - asparagus, tomatoes, and peas. Whatever is in season, goes into the pasta dish. We then mixed sausage with a few ingredients and put the mixture in carved out zucchinis to bake. After that, we made special cookie dough, which we formed into rings. When baked, these cookies were to be dipped in a dessert wine from the Decugnano Estate. I looked over at Ron's cookie station, and thought his looked good enough to be sold at the Calgary Stampede.
When the pizza dough had risen, we patted it out and made pizza marguerita and pizza marinara and focaccia. Then we rolled out the pasta dough, and cut it into wide strips of no specific design, which Ron really enjoyed.
After all our hard work in the kitchen, Anna seated us at a long, wooden table with two place settings, in a room that looked like an old chapel. We could look out the glass doors, and see Orvieto in the distance.
From the kitchen, Anna first served us our baked focaccia, and pizzas, along with wine pairing. It was thoroughly enjoyable and delicious. Then out came the pasta dish with the cooked, fresh vegetables, and Anna did further wine pairing.
As a side note, we found Anna an absolutely fascinating hostes, and a very interesting person. Not only does she have a Masters in Art History from London, but she is a certified Sommelier, (trained in Rome), and now enrolled (for 2.5 years) in another program to become a trained connoisseur (critic) of wine and food. She has a husband who works and travels, 3 children at home, a busy career, and says there is still time to make pasta at home at least once a week. Regarding the cooking of Italian cuisine, Anna says, it is simple..."you grow up watching your mother cook, and then - you just cook like her".
We finished off with the crunchy cookies, which had one whole cup of olive oil in the dough. Delicious.
When this delightful food and drink experience was over,I wanted to put my head down on the table and start snoring - but instead we had to drive for 2 hours, to our B&B in San Casciano (our next destination),just outside of Florence. We said, "Arriverderci" to Anna, and off we drove in the trusty Fiat, listening to Italian staticky radio the whole way.
Driving along the A1 we missed our proper turn off due to construction, and ended up in Florence fighting our way through traffic to get back out,(Ron found this quite exasperating, as he seldom goes off course). However, he did successfully get us back on track. This experience took approximately one hour, but we finally reached our B&B Villa il Poggiale, in San Casciano in val di Pesa at around 7:00 pm. We have been here once before and were so happy to be back.
We are staying around the Villa this evening, to plan out our day tomorrow. It is so chilly, you wouldn't believe it. Apparently it's the coldest spring weather they've experienced in 60 years...
Tuesday 28 May 2013
Bagnoregio (again) and Assisi
Hello Family and Friends!
When I opened the shutters today, I looked out into mist covering the green, rolling hills. I tried to take a few photographs, but just couldn't capture this amazing beauty.
We went down for breakfast and Father Dino greeted us with a kind smile. Since breakfast is just not a lingering affair at Villa Mercede, we soon left to find the Lavatintostir (laundry service), where we could get a few bags of laundry done for four euro a kilogram, (which is better then sitting in a laundromat for two hours when you are in Orvieto).
We walked along to the Cantina Forest Caffe, but while on the way, we saw that the doors to the Orvieto Duomo were open, so we went in to have a look at (words fail me), yet another spectacular display of ancient glory. As we approached the caffe, we could hear male voices singing inside. (You just don't see this at home.) When they finished their song, they patted each other on the back, and went off to start the day. We were seated outside, and our waiter brought us espresso and croissants. He wore a T-shirt that said "El Rono of Havanna, Cuba". When you get up early, like we like to do, you can capture a few moments of Italian life before the town really wakes up and the tourists start crashing into the shops.
While we sat we observed a lady wheel a stroller by with a little, dark haired boy. Two ladies approached and bent over to give him pats and kisses.
Then a lone calico cat sauntered by and a man called out "Caio," to the kitty.
But alas, a group of teens walked by and someone shouted, "Hey! We have to find that toy shop! To which another replied, "Yeah, I wonder where it is!"
As we sat at the caffe, planning our day, we decided to drive back to Civita Di Bagnoregio and do the hike to the village. We wanted to do this yesterday, but it was late when we arrived, so we could only take pictures from a distance. We reminded each other that sometimes opportunities like this only cross your path once, so we decided to go for it. We left the caffe, walked back to Villa Mercede, jumped into our little Fiat and off we went.
I know I've said there have been a lot of highlights so far, but honestly this village rates right at the top, and when we reached the top of Bagnoregio, this village built high up in the rock, we came around a corner to an elderly man playing a violin. We were surprised by the many delightful, tiny trattorias which presented themselves from the most unlikely ancient corners and doorways, as well as the glorious views from this elevation! I turned into a narrow walk way and saw a sign which said Giuseppe's Workshop from the story of Pinnocchio. This workshop was filled with an incredible and interesting display of ancient tools all tacked up on the walls. There was a sign that this little place was the actual workshop that had been used in an Italian television production of Pinnocchio.
A person could not leave a place like this without stopping at "La Piazzetta" for cold, sparkling Prosecco, in the brilliant sunlight on a cobblestone patio. And I know it's hard to believe, but there were church bells clanging in the background.
I know we said we were going to hang around Orvieto today, but when Ron asked, "Do you want to go to Assisi?" I said "Sure!" Again - an opportunity that might come along just this once...and since he is such a great navigator (I've always said he had built-in GPS), and I know all the places to go - we actually make a great team.
It was a beautiful drive to Assissi through lush areas of vineyards, and there was the most brilliant field of purple, yellow flowers and red poppies. I thought of a painting by Claude Monet when I saw this.
In about an hour, we arrived in Assisi, which is also known as 'The City of Peace', and you could see the ancient town high up on the hill, and the modern city below. When we got there, we found ancient streets lined with shops, banks, restaurants. Tourists abounded carrying i-pads and snapping photos. Many of the shops were full of religious art, such as rosaries, robes, crucifixes, statues of Mary holding Baby Jesus, as well as pictures of the Pope.
If you've got lots of energy, you can visit about 12 cathedrals on the Franciscan Routes. We saw a few, but then headed towards the very famous one -the Basilica di S. Francesco or the Church of St. Francis of Assisi. In case anyone wonders, who St. Francis of Assisi is - he's the saint who is famous for the prayer, "Lord, Make Me An Instrument of Your Peace..." It is fascinating to read about his life, and hard to believe he's been dead since 1226 or so.
When we got back to Orvieto, we decided to try a restaurant called Trattoria La Mezza Luna, which was rated #4 on Trip Advisor. They had their Spaghetti Alla Carbonara highlighted on the menu, since that's what they're famous for. (We find that places that get great reviews from Trip Advisor, often don't have to try as hard anymore, because the people will come anyway). Ron tried the carbonara, but didn't want the spaghetti pasta, he wanted 'penne pasta carbonara' (which was frowned upon, and really doesn't exist). Ron said it tasted 'okay'. I tried fettuccine ai fungi porcini, (again). It was okay. What makes the difference sometimes, is a waiter who will make eye contact with you when you come in, and take a slight bit of interest in you.
So, tomorrow, after our 10:00 am cooking class/dinner/wine tour, we'll be zipping along in the Fiat to San Casciano, (a town outside of Florence)....
When I opened the shutters today, I looked out into mist covering the green, rolling hills. I tried to take a few photographs, but just couldn't capture this amazing beauty.
We went down for breakfast and Father Dino greeted us with a kind smile. Since breakfast is just not a lingering affair at Villa Mercede, we soon left to find the Lavatintostir (laundry service), where we could get a few bags of laundry done for four euro a kilogram, (which is better then sitting in a laundromat for two hours when you are in Orvieto).
We walked along to the Cantina Forest Caffe, but while on the way, we saw that the doors to the Orvieto Duomo were open, so we went in to have a look at (words fail me), yet another spectacular display of ancient glory. As we approached the caffe, we could hear male voices singing inside. (You just don't see this at home.) When they finished their song, they patted each other on the back, and went off to start the day. We were seated outside, and our waiter brought us espresso and croissants. He wore a T-shirt that said "El Rono of Havanna, Cuba". When you get up early, like we like to do, you can capture a few moments of Italian life before the town really wakes up and the tourists start crashing into the shops.
While we sat we observed a lady wheel a stroller by with a little, dark haired boy. Two ladies approached and bent over to give him pats and kisses.
Then a lone calico cat sauntered by and a man called out "Caio," to the kitty.
But alas, a group of teens walked by and someone shouted, "Hey! We have to find that toy shop! To which another replied, "Yeah, I wonder where it is!"
As we sat at the caffe, planning our day, we decided to drive back to Civita Di Bagnoregio and do the hike to the village. We wanted to do this yesterday, but it was late when we arrived, so we could only take pictures from a distance. We reminded each other that sometimes opportunities like this only cross your path once, so we decided to go for it. We left the caffe, walked back to Villa Mercede, jumped into our little Fiat and off we went.
I know I've said there have been a lot of highlights so far, but honestly this village rates right at the top, and when we reached the top of Bagnoregio, this village built high up in the rock, we came around a corner to an elderly man playing a violin. We were surprised by the many delightful, tiny trattorias which presented themselves from the most unlikely ancient corners and doorways, as well as the glorious views from this elevation! I turned into a narrow walk way and saw a sign which said Giuseppe's Workshop from the story of Pinnocchio. This workshop was filled with an incredible and interesting display of ancient tools all tacked up on the walls. There was a sign that this little place was the actual workshop that had been used in an Italian television production of Pinnocchio.
A person could not leave a place like this without stopping at "La Piazzetta" for cold, sparkling Prosecco, in the brilliant sunlight on a cobblestone patio. And I know it's hard to believe, but there were church bells clanging in the background.
I know we said we were going to hang around Orvieto today, but when Ron asked, "Do you want to go to Assisi?" I said "Sure!" Again - an opportunity that might come along just this once...and since he is such a great navigator (I've always said he had built-in GPS), and I know all the places to go - we actually make a great team.
It was a beautiful drive to Assissi through lush areas of vineyards, and there was the most brilliant field of purple, yellow flowers and red poppies. I thought of a painting by Claude Monet when I saw this.
In about an hour, we arrived in Assisi, which is also known as 'The City of Peace', and you could see the ancient town high up on the hill, and the modern city below. When we got there, we found ancient streets lined with shops, banks, restaurants. Tourists abounded carrying i-pads and snapping photos. Many of the shops were full of religious art, such as rosaries, robes, crucifixes, statues of Mary holding Baby Jesus, as well as pictures of the Pope.
If you've got lots of energy, you can visit about 12 cathedrals on the Franciscan Routes. We saw a few, but then headed towards the very famous one -the Basilica di S. Francesco or the Church of St. Francis of Assisi. In case anyone wonders, who St. Francis of Assisi is - he's the saint who is famous for the prayer, "Lord, Make Me An Instrument of Your Peace..." It is fascinating to read about his life, and hard to believe he's been dead since 1226 or so.
When we got back to Orvieto, we decided to try a restaurant called Trattoria La Mezza Luna, which was rated #4 on Trip Advisor. They had their Spaghetti Alla Carbonara highlighted on the menu, since that's what they're famous for. (We find that places that get great reviews from Trip Advisor, often don't have to try as hard anymore, because the people will come anyway). Ron tried the carbonara, but didn't want the spaghetti pasta, he wanted 'penne pasta carbonara' (which was frowned upon, and really doesn't exist). Ron said it tasted 'okay'. I tried fettuccine ai fungi porcini, (again). It was okay. What makes the difference sometimes, is a waiter who will make eye contact with you when you come in, and take a slight bit of interest in you.
So, tomorrow, after our 10:00 am cooking class/dinner/wine tour, we'll be zipping along in the Fiat to San Casciano, (a town outside of Florence)....
Monday 27 May 2013
Pitigliano and Civita di Bagnoregio
Hello Family and Friends!
When I awoke today, I got up and threw open the shutters (well not quite) of our room to find myself burst into song..."The Hills Are Alive..." (well it wasn't exactly like that)...but I did find myself captivated by yet another world of immense beauty. We are so high up here, and look out into rolling, green and very lush hills.
I never knew much about the city of Orvieto in the province of Umbria, until I saw it featured in a Bon Appetit magazine a few years' ago. We drove into Orvieto once before, but left after driving around and around and around looking for parking.
Orvieto is an ancient city built in volcanic rock. Its stunning to view from a distance, and that's where you can really get a grasp of its splendor. It's hard to believe that cities can be built on rock and especially at such heights. Orvieto is referred to as "The green heart of Italy". The Duomo di Orvieto is something else to behold, and the cornerstone was first laid in 1270 AD, and it opened in 1310. There is extensive Papacy history here, and we plan to tour the inside of the Duomo tomorrow.
Orvieto is also a region famous for its Orvieto Classico wine and has been making wine since the Middle Ages. (I've been buying it at Superstore for quite a few years). In fact, on Wednesday, starting at 10:00 am, Ron and I are signed up for a cooking class, (everyone cooks their own lunch), and then comes the wine tour. Visit@decugnano.it for details if you are ever coming to Orvieto. Cooking really isn't Ron's thing, but in his good-natured way, he signed up anyway.
So - all that aside, we made our way downstairs for our first breakfast at Villa Mercede. Father Dino, smiling pleasantly, greeted us with the standard morning greeting of the Italian people,"Buongiorno" and ushered us into a large, chilly room with many small, square tables. He showed us the table with the food choices. We tried smiling at a few people, and then wondered if eye contact and speaking might not be allowed. No one seemed happy. We sat down with our bread and jam, and politely listened to utensils clinking against china. Ron whispered at me a few times, things like, "maybe cornflakes would be a good idea next time," and "where should we go for our espresso after this?" to which I replied, "Ssshhhhh". We sat quietly listening to cellopane being ripped off of small, packaged pastries. I looked up at a large, colorful fresco on the ceiling. Very chubby infant angels floated around tooting on bugles, and brandishing swords and chains. A lone person with stern looking spectacles shuffled, in collected food from the breakfast table, went to the corner, sat down and faced the wall.
We finished up at the table, and started on our journey in our little Fiat, to Pitigliano, (a town rich in history, and which is still referred to as "The Little Jerusalem". At one time in history, it was mostly made up of Jewish people who fled Rome during Reformation Persecutions. During the Second World War, it became known as The Ghetto for Jews. Jewish people were hidden there in the surrounding countryside, and some lives were saved. We toured the caves and the Synagogue here - the 'Sinagoga E Patrimonio Enraico'. Ron was asked to wear a yamaka (cap) during the visit.
There were still tourist paraphernalia shops sprinkled around Pitigliano but it wasn't too bad. We loved wandering these tiny, ancient streets, where you could still see an occasional lady still sitting on a wooden chair outside her door and looking at you mysteriously as you trudged by with water bottle in hand.
On the way to lunch, we stopped in at the Duomo Cattedrale on Piazza S. Gregorio VII. Stunning. Who on earth built these glorious structures we asked ourselves?
We stopped for lunch at Cucina Tipica. Ron ordered the local salami and proscuitto. I would like to have caught the proper name of this dish, but Ron, (who normally has the patience of Job), suddenly said, "Karen! Do you really think people care about what you eat everyday? I decided not to take it personally, and wrote down the proper names anyway. So I'll tell you we tasted olive oil made in right in Pitigliano, and even wine of Pitigliano. Delicioso (Delicious! Ron had Tagliatelle alla boscaiola (noodles with sausage and mushroom sauce), and I had Tagliatelle with porcini (fungji porcini) mushrooms and truffles (tartufi! I studied the tagliatelle noodles carefully these days, since I started learning to make pasta at home. I'm picking up some good ideas...
The way the Italian menu works is like this: Antipasti - (hors d'oevre), Primi Piatti (first course), Secondi Piatti ( main course), Cortorni (contours - usually a vegetable or side to compliment the meat) and then dessert.
We left Pitigliani and drove to the south shore of Lago di Bolsena at Capodimonte where we walked along the shore and enjoyed the sunny afternoon before driving to Civita di Bagnoregio. Civita is an Italian hillside town that was once connected to Bagnoregio by a land bridge that eroded away and is now connected by a foot bridge. It is so magnificent, I can't even describe it. It looks like a castle in the sky and all we could do was stand and drink it all in.
We started our drive back to Orvieto listening to music we love "Antonello Vendetti (Prendilo Tu Questo Frutto Amaro)".
After a little rest, we walked to Zeppelin Ristorante, and said "Hello," to Chef Lorenzo, for some friends of ours. This ristorante looked like a fun, place to take a cooking lesson. Chef Lorenzo is a fun, lively person who likes to interact with people. He is also the author of "The Etruscan Chef".
How fortunate we are to be able to be in this beautiful country with its ancient, rich history and spectacular cuisine. I think of something someone once said to us in the town of Camogli, Italy on the Cinque Terre. He asked where Ron and I were from. Then he said, "Enjoy Italy, and breathe it in with every pore of your body..." (Which really isn't that hard to do).
When I awoke today, I got up and threw open the shutters (well not quite) of our room to find myself burst into song..."The Hills Are Alive..." (well it wasn't exactly like that)...but I did find myself captivated by yet another world of immense beauty. We are so high up here, and look out into rolling, green and very lush hills.
I never knew much about the city of Orvieto in the province of Umbria, until I saw it featured in a Bon Appetit magazine a few years' ago. We drove into Orvieto once before, but left after driving around and around and around looking for parking.
Orvieto is an ancient city built in volcanic rock. Its stunning to view from a distance, and that's where you can really get a grasp of its splendor. It's hard to believe that cities can be built on rock and especially at such heights. Orvieto is referred to as "The green heart of Italy". The Duomo di Orvieto is something else to behold, and the cornerstone was first laid in 1270 AD, and it opened in 1310. There is extensive Papacy history here, and we plan to tour the inside of the Duomo tomorrow.
Orvieto is also a region famous for its Orvieto Classico wine and has been making wine since the Middle Ages. (I've been buying it at Superstore for quite a few years). In fact, on Wednesday, starting at 10:00 am, Ron and I are signed up for a cooking class, (everyone cooks their own lunch), and then comes the wine tour. Visit@decugnano.it for details if you are ever coming to Orvieto. Cooking really isn't Ron's thing, but in his good-natured way, he signed up anyway.
So - all that aside, we made our way downstairs for our first breakfast at Villa Mercede. Father Dino, smiling pleasantly, greeted us with the standard morning greeting of the Italian people,"Buongiorno" and ushered us into a large, chilly room with many small, square tables. He showed us the table with the food choices. We tried smiling at a few people, and then wondered if eye contact and speaking might not be allowed. No one seemed happy. We sat down with our bread and jam, and politely listened to utensils clinking against china. Ron whispered at me a few times, things like, "maybe cornflakes would be a good idea next time," and "where should we go for our espresso after this?" to which I replied, "Ssshhhhh". We sat quietly listening to cellopane being ripped off of small, packaged pastries. I looked up at a large, colorful fresco on the ceiling. Very chubby infant angels floated around tooting on bugles, and brandishing swords and chains. A lone person with stern looking spectacles shuffled, in collected food from the breakfast table, went to the corner, sat down and faced the wall.
We finished up at the table, and started on our journey in our little Fiat, to Pitigliano, (a town rich in history, and which is still referred to as "The Little Jerusalem". At one time in history, it was mostly made up of Jewish people who fled Rome during Reformation Persecutions. During the Second World War, it became known as The Ghetto for Jews. Jewish people were hidden there in the surrounding countryside, and some lives were saved. We toured the caves and the Synagogue here - the 'Sinagoga E Patrimonio Enraico'. Ron was asked to wear a yamaka (cap) during the visit.
There were still tourist paraphernalia shops sprinkled around Pitigliano but it wasn't too bad. We loved wandering these tiny, ancient streets, where you could still see an occasional lady still sitting on a wooden chair outside her door and looking at you mysteriously as you trudged by with water bottle in hand.
On the way to lunch, we stopped in at the Duomo Cattedrale on Piazza S. Gregorio VII. Stunning. Who on earth built these glorious structures we asked ourselves?
We stopped for lunch at Cucina Tipica. Ron ordered the local salami and proscuitto. I would like to have caught the proper name of this dish, but Ron, (who normally has the patience of Job), suddenly said, "Karen! Do you really think people care about what you eat everyday? I decided not to take it personally, and wrote down the proper names anyway. So I'll tell you we tasted olive oil made in right in Pitigliano, and even wine of Pitigliano. Delicioso (Delicious! Ron had Tagliatelle alla boscaiola (noodles with sausage and mushroom sauce), and I had Tagliatelle with porcini (fungji porcini) mushrooms and truffles (tartufi! I studied the tagliatelle noodles carefully these days, since I started learning to make pasta at home. I'm picking up some good ideas...
The way the Italian menu works is like this: Antipasti - (hors d'oevre), Primi Piatti (first course), Secondi Piatti ( main course), Cortorni (contours - usually a vegetable or side to compliment the meat) and then dessert.
We left Pitigliani and drove to the south shore of Lago di Bolsena at Capodimonte where we walked along the shore and enjoyed the sunny afternoon before driving to Civita di Bagnoregio. Civita is an Italian hillside town that was once connected to Bagnoregio by a land bridge that eroded away and is now connected by a foot bridge. It is so magnificent, I can't even describe it. It looks like a castle in the sky and all we could do was stand and drink it all in.
We started our drive back to Orvieto listening to music we love "Antonello Vendetti (Prendilo Tu Questo Frutto Amaro)".
After a little rest, we walked to Zeppelin Ristorante, and said "Hello," to Chef Lorenzo, for some friends of ours. This ristorante looked like a fun, place to take a cooking lesson. Chef Lorenzo is a fun, lively person who likes to interact with people. He is also the author of "The Etruscan Chef".
How fortunate we are to be able to be in this beautiful country with its ancient, rich history and spectacular cuisine. I think of something someone once said to us in the town of Camogli, Italy on the Cinque Terre. He asked where Ron and I were from. Then he said, "Enjoy Italy, and breathe it in with every pore of your body..." (Which really isn't that hard to do).
Sunday 26 May 2013
Orvieto
Hello Family and Friends!
The weather has been unstable here the last few days. Beautiful sunshine over the Bay of Naples one moment, and then dark, foreboding clouds the next. Then comes a brief downpour and it's over once again! Of course, I had my daily gaze at Vesuvius, and then went upstairs for our final breakfast with Rosa.
After breakfast, we packed up and walked down the street to Luciano's, an outdoor cafe with small round tables for our last caffe, on Corso Vittorio Emmanuele Street (which runs past Casa Chiara).
Ron ordered a croissant filled with apple. He commented that we must have walked around 20km yesterday. I mention that I'm baffled I don't seem to be losing weight these days.
Ron exclaimed, "Oh I think you will." "Will what?" I say. "Will lose weight!" Ron said. "Will lose weight? You mean you don't think I have?" He quickly back peddles and said he thought I had lost weight. Okay, then...
Suddenly, there was an instant downpour again. A lady appeared in the doorway and ushered us inside. We stood in the entrance, and soon the waitress, along with a man in a purple apron, dashed outside, picked up our table and together carried it to a small corner of the caffe. The cups and dishes stayed intact on top. We were humbled by such a display of kindness!
One funny thing we've noticed, is that the service staff frequently and loudly call around the establishment to each other, even as they are taking your order! Back at home, we would just frown on this, but here it's rather entertaining and that's just the way it is.
We went back to Casa Chiara to collect our bags. I stood on the balcony for one last look at one of the most magnicent view I have ever seen - Mt. Vesuvius, The Bay of Naples, and the Isle of Capri. I heard a lady scolding someone loudly off in the distance. Rosa called a cab for us, kissed us good bye (Arrivederci), and waved us off. I saw that she tucked a small jar of homemade lemon marmalade into my bag.
The driver took us to the airport where our little car awaited us at Europcar. It cost 23 euro to get there a flat rate -(regulated by the government. Thank goodness.
Our driver sped along the busy, narrow roads, twisting and turning around the bends. All was well, until it became apparent the driver had no idea where the car rental agency was. He sped along narrow streets, navigating carefully past oncoming vehicles. It beats me how any side mirrors on these tiny cars actually make it through a day. Our driver screeched to a stop eight different times to make inquiries. After arriving at a dead end, he backed up, turned another way, and finally found the agency.
We got our silver Fiat Punto without too much ado. Only one suitcase fit in the trunk, the other had to go in the backseat. After a brief car inspection, we jumped in and drove out of the parking lot to continue on our adventure. We had a 310 km drive ahead of us to Orvieto. Ron ordered, "Watch for a sign that says Rome or Florence"!
We got onto the A-1 highway. The speed limit was posted at 100 km/hr, but a few rebels tore past us at around 150 km/hr. There were nice stopping areas along the A-1 called 'Autogrill' which seemed to occur at least every 33 kms. They are gas stations, as well as large stores with fresh food, snacks, coffee, wine, toys, magazines, etc. We walked over to the coffee bar and ordered caffe Americano. It came the same way each time we ordered it, - 30 mls or so of Espresso, a side of steamed water and a side of steamed milk - and always in a little cup with a saucer and a little spoon on the side. You just don't see the 500 mls of coffee in a to-go paper cup here. And people never drink coffee while driving. Here,for the most part, you stand at a counter, enjoy your coffee, and then leave.
It's chilly and cloudy today. It was a beautiful drive, very hilly and lush. We saw snow capped mountains in the northeast. We passed one hilltop village after another. On the other side of the highway, we saw black smoke billowing into the air. As we drove by, we saw the engine engulfed in orange flames.
We're soon to arrive in Orvieto. We booked a place in an old monastery called Villa Mercedes, Casa Religiosa Di Ospitalita. Now, I'm wishing we were driving up to a comfy hotel that had an iron. I pictured Padre greeting us in a long robe with a rope tied around his waist and a friar hair-do. I see him ushering us down a dark candle lit hall to very austere quarters, and whispering, "This is your room!" There is Gregorian chanting somewhere. I sigh... But you never know, I told myself...
My thoughts were interrupted by a stop at the toll station. We had to pay 20 euro for the privilege of driving the A1 (Autostrada).
We drove the windy road up to the ancient, walled hill city of Orvieto. Incredibly lush area. We drove right across the piazza in front of the Duomo. This just didn't seem right, and I kept looking over my shoulder expecting the Orvieto Polizia in tiny, blue cars to roar up with red light flashing. Ron found the old monastery,(which is now a B@B, run by priests). We met Father Dino, who escorted us to our room. Once again we found ourselves in a lovely room. No iron, though. The bathroom was so large, it echoed. There was a shower, a bath, and even a bidet. (I know someone who rinsed out her underwear in a bidet once).
Once, we got settled in our room we went for a walk. We walked past the magnificent Duomo. Sunday evening in Orvieto...We were hoping to try out a restaurant called Zeppelin, but it was closed Sundays, so we stopped at an outdoor Caffe called ClanDestin for wine and bruschetta. We listened to "I'm A Believer", playing loudly, and then "Great Balls Of Fire". This isn't really the kind of music you'd like to hear when you come to Italy.
We were surprised at how commercial and touristy Orvieto was. Many shops were selling similar ceramic products, and we saw lots of jewellery and clothing stores.
As we sat enjoying bruschetta and cold Orvieto Classico wine, we noticed an elderly, dark-haired lady walked by pushing her walker unsteadily over the cobblestone. She wore a blue sweatshirt that read, "I Am A Boy".
And yet again, we were reminded of our uni-lingualism. A lady walked up and asked in English, "Can I take this chair?" She took the chair, and reverted immediately to Swedish with her friends. We looked at each other and we're quite sure we have a sign on our foreheads that reads, "English Speaking Only".
We left and saw a large crowd gathered in front of a cathedral. There were several priests in pale blue robes with white caps, elevating a statue of Mary. Ron excitedly said,"Karen! I bet they're going to the Duomo! Should we follow the procession?" I said, "You go ahead, I'll wait here..."
We decided to head back to our room. It was so windy and chilly, and quite unpleasant weather-wise this evening.
We get back to our room and Ron says, "Man - is it ever quiet here - you'd think we were in monastery....
The weather has been unstable here the last few days. Beautiful sunshine over the Bay of Naples one moment, and then dark, foreboding clouds the next. Then comes a brief downpour and it's over once again! Of course, I had my daily gaze at Vesuvius, and then went upstairs for our final breakfast with Rosa.
After breakfast, we packed up and walked down the street to Luciano's, an outdoor cafe with small round tables for our last caffe, on Corso Vittorio Emmanuele Street (which runs past Casa Chiara).
Ron ordered a croissant filled with apple. He commented that we must have walked around 20km yesterday. I mention that I'm baffled I don't seem to be losing weight these days.
Ron exclaimed, "Oh I think you will." "Will what?" I say. "Will lose weight!" Ron said. "Will lose weight? You mean you don't think I have?" He quickly back peddles and said he thought I had lost weight. Okay, then...
Suddenly, there was an instant downpour again. A lady appeared in the doorway and ushered us inside. We stood in the entrance, and soon the waitress, along with a man in a purple apron, dashed outside, picked up our table and together carried it to a small corner of the caffe. The cups and dishes stayed intact on top. We were humbled by such a display of kindness!
One funny thing we've noticed, is that the service staff frequently and loudly call around the establishment to each other, even as they are taking your order! Back at home, we would just frown on this, but here it's rather entertaining and that's just the way it is.
We went back to Casa Chiara to collect our bags. I stood on the balcony for one last look at one of the most magnicent view I have ever seen - Mt. Vesuvius, The Bay of Naples, and the Isle of Capri. I heard a lady scolding someone loudly off in the distance. Rosa called a cab for us, kissed us good bye (Arrivederci), and waved us off. I saw that she tucked a small jar of homemade lemon marmalade into my bag.
The driver took us to the airport where our little car awaited us at Europcar. It cost 23 euro to get there a flat rate -(regulated by the government. Thank goodness.
Our driver sped along the busy, narrow roads, twisting and turning around the bends. All was well, until it became apparent the driver had no idea where the car rental agency was. He sped along narrow streets, navigating carefully past oncoming vehicles. It beats me how any side mirrors on these tiny cars actually make it through a day. Our driver screeched to a stop eight different times to make inquiries. After arriving at a dead end, he backed up, turned another way, and finally found the agency.
We got our silver Fiat Punto without too much ado. Only one suitcase fit in the trunk, the other had to go in the backseat. After a brief car inspection, we jumped in and drove out of the parking lot to continue on our adventure. We had a 310 km drive ahead of us to Orvieto. Ron ordered, "Watch for a sign that says Rome or Florence"!
We got onto the A-1 highway. The speed limit was posted at 100 km/hr, but a few rebels tore past us at around 150 km/hr. There were nice stopping areas along the A-1 called 'Autogrill' which seemed to occur at least every 33 kms. They are gas stations, as well as large stores with fresh food, snacks, coffee, wine, toys, magazines, etc. We walked over to the coffee bar and ordered caffe Americano. It came the same way each time we ordered it, - 30 mls or so of Espresso, a side of steamed water and a side of steamed milk - and always in a little cup with a saucer and a little spoon on the side. You just don't see the 500 mls of coffee in a to-go paper cup here. And people never drink coffee while driving. Here,for the most part, you stand at a counter, enjoy your coffee, and then leave.
It's chilly and cloudy today. It was a beautiful drive, very hilly and lush. We saw snow capped mountains in the northeast. We passed one hilltop village after another. On the other side of the highway, we saw black smoke billowing into the air. As we drove by, we saw the engine engulfed in orange flames.
We're soon to arrive in Orvieto. We booked a place in an old monastery called Villa Mercedes, Casa Religiosa Di Ospitalita. Now, I'm wishing we were driving up to a comfy hotel that had an iron. I pictured Padre greeting us in a long robe with a rope tied around his waist and a friar hair-do. I see him ushering us down a dark candle lit hall to very austere quarters, and whispering, "This is your room!" There is Gregorian chanting somewhere. I sigh... But you never know, I told myself...
My thoughts were interrupted by a stop at the toll station. We had to pay 20 euro for the privilege of driving the A1 (Autostrada).
We drove the windy road up to the ancient, walled hill city of Orvieto. Incredibly lush area. We drove right across the piazza in front of the Duomo. This just didn't seem right, and I kept looking over my shoulder expecting the Orvieto Polizia in tiny, blue cars to roar up with red light flashing. Ron found the old monastery,(which is now a B@B, run by priests). We met Father Dino, who escorted us to our room. Once again we found ourselves in a lovely room. No iron, though. The bathroom was so large, it echoed. There was a shower, a bath, and even a bidet. (I know someone who rinsed out her underwear in a bidet once).
Once, we got settled in our room we went for a walk. We walked past the magnificent Duomo. Sunday evening in Orvieto...We were hoping to try out a restaurant called Zeppelin, but it was closed Sundays, so we stopped at an outdoor Caffe called ClanDestin for wine and bruschetta. We listened to "I'm A Believer", playing loudly, and then "Great Balls Of Fire". This isn't really the kind of music you'd like to hear when you come to Italy.
We were surprised at how commercial and touristy Orvieto was. Many shops were selling similar ceramic products, and we saw lots of jewellery and clothing stores.
As we sat enjoying bruschetta and cold Orvieto Classico wine, we noticed an elderly, dark-haired lady walked by pushing her walker unsteadily over the cobblestone. She wore a blue sweatshirt that read, "I Am A Boy".
And yet again, we were reminded of our uni-lingualism. A lady walked up and asked in English, "Can I take this chair?" She took the chair, and reverted immediately to Swedish with her friends. We looked at each other and we're quite sure we have a sign on our foreheads that reads, "English Speaking Only".
We left and saw a large crowd gathered in front of a cathedral. There were several priests in pale blue robes with white caps, elevating a statue of Mary. Ron excitedly said,"Karen! I bet they're going to the Duomo! Should we follow the procession?" I said, "You go ahead, I'll wait here..."
We decided to head back to our room. It was so windy and chilly, and quite unpleasant weather-wise this evening.
We get back to our room and Ron says, "Man - is it ever quiet here - you'd think we were in monastery....
Saturday 25 May 2013
Last Day in Naples
Hello Family and Friends!
Today is a sunny, bright morning. I said I'd be up looking at Vesuvius first thing in the mornings, only today I look at it as the mountain that blew its top in 79 AD, destroying the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum and killing around 16,000 people . That was its most famous eruption. You just can't take Vesuvius for granted, and it still represents a threat to the city of Naples. Five years ago, Ron and I had the opportunity to walk to the top of Vesuvius, around part of the rim, and look down into the steamy, cavernous crater.
We went for breakfast with Rosa at 8:00 am. We were a bit disappointed the couple from Turin decided to sleep in and miss breakfast. 8:00 am may be just too early for some people, who are on vacation.
Rosa, we discovered, makes her own limoncello, by adding large amounts of lemon peel, zucchero (sugar), water and alcohol together in a jar. The mixture sits on the counter for 3-4 days, and then it's ready. She is an amazing woman, who seems to do everything herself around here. She asked us to be the "first Canadians" to write a review about Casa Chiara on Trip Advisor, and we assured her we would when we returned home.
So we left Rosa's and walked down to Regine Pizzeria to meet with Vincenzo for the fish (peche) lesson he had offered me yesterday. No Vincenzo around. Hmmm. I ask Luigi about this. Luigi reminds me that today is Saturday and Vincenzo doesn't come in until around 11:30. Naushad tells me I'm welcome to stay anyway if I'd like. Luigi, who wears a red vest, and carries himself in a dignified fashion around this bright, green pizzeria, serves us espresso with a gracious nod. Luigi speaks no English, but waves his arms around and speaks Italian like any moment now, you'll understand. We tried to explain to Vincenzo (second chef), that maybe we'll return later. They nodded and smiled. They were busy cleaning up tables and emptying trash from the night before. On the way out, I tell Ron that I think my fish (peche) lesson just got flushed down the toilet...
Since Ron wanted to do some videotapeing on our last day, we walked down Spagonapoli into the buzzing activity on the streets again. So many tiny shops filled with meats, cheeses, sauces and pastries. Fresh fish was everywhere on tables, permeating the air around us. We noticed lots shops that sell Romana Arte Sacra (religious artifacts) such as Mary figurines and Baby Jesus in a manger.
This brings to mind a joke that I heard from Two Greedy Italians.."It's for sure Jesus was Italian - because Momma thought her son was a God, and he thought she was a Virgin!"
As we walked along, Ron comments, "At least there's no aggressive vendors here, poking their heads out of cracks and doorways and beckoning for you to come in, come in ....with comments such as, "For you, only half price" - like you see in other places. We cross Piazza Dante and I see a guy standing with his finger in his nose unabashedly studying us as we walk by. Another one holds out his cap to me for change, and when I turn and look back at him, the cap is on his the head and he's on his mobile.
I passed a shop called "Gypsy Girl", and pop in. You can't walk by a store with a name like that and not stop in. Inside are beautifully colored tops, and skirts and handmade jewellery. Ron's happy here, because there are lots of stores selling musical instruments. He spots a Fender Telecaster guitar in a window and discovers it cost only 2,000 euro. He says he'll buy it the next time we come! People walk by dragging luggage down the street, and of course the ubiquitous scooters dart around dodging bits of trash and people.
An elderly lady strolls by wearing a black hat, many turquoise rings, bright red lips, leopard skin pants, turquoise suede boots with sparkles, and a white T shirt that reads "Fashion is Not Expensive."
We stopped at a Caffe called Fiorillo, for another delightful pastry and strong coffee, because this is one of the best parts of a vacation ... stopping whenever you feel like it, for really no good reason. It's difficult to lose weight here, unless you're prepared to spend your vacation on a diet. Barely one minute into our coffee, two men (one in a bright pink shirt), walked up to our table. One had an accordian and the other bashed a tambourine around, and together they played old romantic Italian music. At the end of their performance, the tambourine suddenly had a new function - it turned into a collection plate, and when Ron dropped two euro in, off they went, smiling and laughing, down to the next caffe.
When we left the caffe, we walked down an dark street, where an elderly lady leaned out a window earnestly trying to engage us in conversation. I kept saying, "No Capito", but she carried on anyway. We crossed Vicodin Del Fico Al Purgatorio in the Quartiere San Lorenzo. I just love these names! Onward we went into Piazza San Domenico Maggiore in the Quartiere Giuseppe, where there was someone playing a saxophone, while his partner beat on the most interesting makeshift drum set ever. The snare was a five gallon tomato sauce can...along with assorted bicycle parts for banging on! Two nuns walked hurriedly by.
We stopped at a cute, little corner caffe called Settebello via B. Croce for espresso. Little tables were crowded with the locals who called out to each other across the small caffe. A tiny lady dressed in black, with black knee socks and sandals walked towards the door, but stopped at our table. She spoke to me, putting her hand on my shoulder and said, "Bella Señora!" I considered it a great compliment, and smiled at her.
There was unbelievable racket outside the caffe, and two black men pounded on drums across the street. It was as if the streets were waking up! Just outside the door was a woman begging. This caught me off guard, because when I looked at her, I saw that she did not have a nose - only a black cavity where there should have been a nose.
We decided that you can't really visit Naples, and miss the Caffe Gambrinus (Storico Gran Caffe Gambrinus, Napoli) in Palazzo Salerno E Gambrinus. It's the oldest caffe in Naples - very elegant, and ornate with chandeliers, and lots of history, some of which includes famous people like Mussolini, Ernest Hemingway, and Oscar Wilde. Apparently, during Fascism, Mussolini had some of the rooms shut down to keep out left-wing intellectuals. The staff wore white shirts, white vests and dark pants. They conversed frequently with each other, but were inattentive, impersonal and unsmiling. Nevertheless, it was fun to experience it, and we enjoyed our glass of Prosecco, along with olives, peanuts, cheese and some toasts. And just think...this Caffe looks out onto Piazza Del Plebiscito in the Quartiere San Ferdinando, where Bruce Springsteen roared away in the wind, rain and cold a few nights ago, performing for a massive crowd on the Piazza. Who ever knew that Bruce Springsteen has Italian heritage? Apparently his grandfather owned a restaurant in Vico Equense, which is a small town 30 miles south of Naples.
We continued on to Palazzo Reale Napoli - the Royal Palace of Naples which has housed various kings over the centuries and poked our heads through the massive doors. We could see the famous marble flooring and the grand staircase, and opted out of wandering around another ancient structure. We just didn't feel like looking at a variety of statues of kings who were important in the 1700's.
The highlight of our day was the walk along the Bay of Naples. It's called Via Partenope in Quartiere San Fernando (similar to a promenade). It was very windy, and beautiful - I would call it breathtaking. Off in the distance we could see the Isle of Capri, Mt. Vesuvius, and close up, an ancient fortress called Castel Dell'Ovo, which sits right on the water.
We left the promenade and found a bench in Piazza Vittoria which was filled with a carpet of purple flowers and six palm trees. Of course there's a statue of somebody (Giovanni Nicotera) in the middle, because there is always a statue.
Tired from a very long walk, we made our way along Via Chiaia towards the the Funiculare to get back to Casa Chiara. We rested our aching feet and then headed back to Regine Pizzeria. Vincenzo greeted me..."Why you not stay this morning? I come at 11:30 for the fish?" I tried to explain that today was our last day, and he had mentioned for me to come at 9:00 am. He took me into the kitchen which was bustling with family activity, and introduced me to his wife, Patrecia. She smiled as she worked busily rolling pieces of fish in bread crumbs. There were sauces in various stages...shrimp, squid, mussels, prawns, also lettuces, peas, breads, and lemons in bowls. A large bowl of small, dark red tomatoes, perced precariously on the edge of the counter. Pasquale sat cutting up a mass of strawberries at one table. The tables were all neatly set for the evening.
We asked if we could get supper, "yes, yes," Vincenzo nodded and waved to Luigi. We ordered pizza (because this is Naples), pasta, shrimp, squid and a few other unrecognizable sea creatures in the mix. While we waited, Luigi turned up the soccer game full blast, and a variety of languages started talking above the game. We could only laugh at this. What a marvellous place, with lovely people who just insist on being themselves!
We finished up, Vincenzo charged us a minimal price, kissed both of us Italian style, and we left. Walking back to Rosa's for our last evening, we talked about what a fascinating, rich time we've had here in Naples...we'll just never forget!
Suddenly, a scooter roared by and beeped at us. It's Amedeo (waiter), and Luigi on back, holding two boxes of pizza and on their way to make a speedy delivery...
Today is a sunny, bright morning. I said I'd be up looking at Vesuvius first thing in the mornings, only today I look at it as the mountain that blew its top in 79 AD, destroying the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum and killing around 16,000 people . That was its most famous eruption. You just can't take Vesuvius for granted, and it still represents a threat to the city of Naples. Five years ago, Ron and I had the opportunity to walk to the top of Vesuvius, around part of the rim, and look down into the steamy, cavernous crater.
We went for breakfast with Rosa at 8:00 am. We were a bit disappointed the couple from Turin decided to sleep in and miss breakfast. 8:00 am may be just too early for some people, who are on vacation.
Rosa, we discovered, makes her own limoncello, by adding large amounts of lemon peel, zucchero (sugar), water and alcohol together in a jar. The mixture sits on the counter for 3-4 days, and then it's ready. She is an amazing woman, who seems to do everything herself around here. She asked us to be the "first Canadians" to write a review about Casa Chiara on Trip Advisor, and we assured her we would when we returned home.
So we left Rosa's and walked down to Regine Pizzeria to meet with Vincenzo for the fish (peche) lesson he had offered me yesterday. No Vincenzo around. Hmmm. I ask Luigi about this. Luigi reminds me that today is Saturday and Vincenzo doesn't come in until around 11:30. Naushad tells me I'm welcome to stay anyway if I'd like. Luigi, who wears a red vest, and carries himself in a dignified fashion around this bright, green pizzeria, serves us espresso with a gracious nod. Luigi speaks no English, but waves his arms around and speaks Italian like any moment now, you'll understand. We tried to explain to Vincenzo (second chef), that maybe we'll return later. They nodded and smiled. They were busy cleaning up tables and emptying trash from the night before. On the way out, I tell Ron that I think my fish (peche) lesson just got flushed down the toilet...
Since Ron wanted to do some videotapeing on our last day, we walked down Spagonapoli into the buzzing activity on the streets again. So many tiny shops filled with meats, cheeses, sauces and pastries. Fresh fish was everywhere on tables, permeating the air around us. We noticed lots shops that sell Romana Arte Sacra (religious artifacts) such as Mary figurines and Baby Jesus in a manger.
This brings to mind a joke that I heard from Two Greedy Italians.."It's for sure Jesus was Italian - because Momma thought her son was a God, and he thought she was a Virgin!"
As we walked along, Ron comments, "At least there's no aggressive vendors here, poking their heads out of cracks and doorways and beckoning for you to come in, come in ....with comments such as, "For you, only half price" - like you see in other places. We cross Piazza Dante and I see a guy standing with his finger in his nose unabashedly studying us as we walk by. Another one holds out his cap to me for change, and when I turn and look back at him, the cap is on his the head and he's on his mobile.
I passed a shop called "Gypsy Girl", and pop in. You can't walk by a store with a name like that and not stop in. Inside are beautifully colored tops, and skirts and handmade jewellery. Ron's happy here, because there are lots of stores selling musical instruments. He spots a Fender Telecaster guitar in a window and discovers it cost only 2,000 euro. He says he'll buy it the next time we come! People walk by dragging luggage down the street, and of course the ubiquitous scooters dart around dodging bits of trash and people.
An elderly lady strolls by wearing a black hat, many turquoise rings, bright red lips, leopard skin pants, turquoise suede boots with sparkles, and a white T shirt that reads "Fashion is Not Expensive."
We stopped at a Caffe called Fiorillo, for another delightful pastry and strong coffee, because this is one of the best parts of a vacation ... stopping whenever you feel like it, for really no good reason. It's difficult to lose weight here, unless you're prepared to spend your vacation on a diet. Barely one minute into our coffee, two men (one in a bright pink shirt), walked up to our table. One had an accordian and the other bashed a tambourine around, and together they played old romantic Italian music. At the end of their performance, the tambourine suddenly had a new function - it turned into a collection plate, and when Ron dropped two euro in, off they went, smiling and laughing, down to the next caffe.
When we left the caffe, we walked down an dark street, where an elderly lady leaned out a window earnestly trying to engage us in conversation. I kept saying, "No Capito", but she carried on anyway. We crossed Vicodin Del Fico Al Purgatorio in the Quartiere San Lorenzo. I just love these names! Onward we went into Piazza San Domenico Maggiore in the Quartiere Giuseppe, where there was someone playing a saxophone, while his partner beat on the most interesting makeshift drum set ever. The snare was a five gallon tomato sauce can...along with assorted bicycle parts for banging on! Two nuns walked hurriedly by.
We stopped at a cute, little corner caffe called Settebello via B. Croce for espresso. Little tables were crowded with the locals who called out to each other across the small caffe. A tiny lady dressed in black, with black knee socks and sandals walked towards the door, but stopped at our table. She spoke to me, putting her hand on my shoulder and said, "Bella Señora!" I considered it a great compliment, and smiled at her.
There was unbelievable racket outside the caffe, and two black men pounded on drums across the street. It was as if the streets were waking up! Just outside the door was a woman begging. This caught me off guard, because when I looked at her, I saw that she did not have a nose - only a black cavity where there should have been a nose.
We decided that you can't really visit Naples, and miss the Caffe Gambrinus (Storico Gran Caffe Gambrinus, Napoli) in Palazzo Salerno E Gambrinus. It's the oldest caffe in Naples - very elegant, and ornate with chandeliers, and lots of history, some of which includes famous people like Mussolini, Ernest Hemingway, and Oscar Wilde. Apparently, during Fascism, Mussolini had some of the rooms shut down to keep out left-wing intellectuals. The staff wore white shirts, white vests and dark pants. They conversed frequently with each other, but were inattentive, impersonal and unsmiling. Nevertheless, it was fun to experience it, and we enjoyed our glass of Prosecco, along with olives, peanuts, cheese and some toasts. And just think...this Caffe looks out onto Piazza Del Plebiscito in the Quartiere San Ferdinando, where Bruce Springsteen roared away in the wind, rain and cold a few nights ago, performing for a massive crowd on the Piazza. Who ever knew that Bruce Springsteen has Italian heritage? Apparently his grandfather owned a restaurant in Vico Equense, which is a small town 30 miles south of Naples.
We continued on to Palazzo Reale Napoli - the Royal Palace of Naples which has housed various kings over the centuries and poked our heads through the massive doors. We could see the famous marble flooring and the grand staircase, and opted out of wandering around another ancient structure. We just didn't feel like looking at a variety of statues of kings who were important in the 1700's.
The highlight of our day was the walk along the Bay of Naples. It's called Via Partenope in Quartiere San Fernando (similar to a promenade). It was very windy, and beautiful - I would call it breathtaking. Off in the distance we could see the Isle of Capri, Mt. Vesuvius, and close up, an ancient fortress called Castel Dell'Ovo, which sits right on the water.
We left the promenade and found a bench in Piazza Vittoria which was filled with a carpet of purple flowers and six palm trees. Of course there's a statue of somebody (Giovanni Nicotera) in the middle, because there is always a statue.
Tired from a very long walk, we made our way along Via Chiaia towards the the Funiculare to get back to Casa Chiara. We rested our aching feet and then headed back to Regine Pizzeria. Vincenzo greeted me..."Why you not stay this morning? I come at 11:30 for the fish?" I tried to explain that today was our last day, and he had mentioned for me to come at 9:00 am. He took me into the kitchen which was bustling with family activity, and introduced me to his wife, Patrecia. She smiled as she worked busily rolling pieces of fish in bread crumbs. There were sauces in various stages...shrimp, squid, mussels, prawns, also lettuces, peas, breads, and lemons in bowls. A large bowl of small, dark red tomatoes, perced precariously on the edge of the counter. Pasquale sat cutting up a mass of strawberries at one table. The tables were all neatly set for the evening.
We asked if we could get supper, "yes, yes," Vincenzo nodded and waved to Luigi. We ordered pizza (because this is Naples), pasta, shrimp, squid and a few other unrecognizable sea creatures in the mix. While we waited, Luigi turned up the soccer game full blast, and a variety of languages started talking above the game. We could only laugh at this. What a marvellous place, with lovely people who just insist on being themselves!
We finished up, Vincenzo charged us a minimal price, kissed both of us Italian style, and we left. Walking back to Rosa's for our last evening, we talked about what a fascinating, rich time we've had here in Naples...we'll just never forget!
Suddenly, a scooter roared by and beeped at us. It's Amedeo (waiter), and Luigi on back, holding two boxes of pizza and on their way to make a speedy delivery...
Friday 24 May 2013
Castel Sant'Elmo, Regine Pizzeria Cooking Demo., Di Matteo Pizzeria
Hello Family and Friends!
The first thing I do in the morning these days, is step out onto the balcony to view Vesuvius (the top of which is covered in cloud and fog this morning), and the Bay of Naples, as well as the Isle of Capri. I see two large cruise ships in the Bay this morning. We must have had a huge rainfall in the night, because as I look across the various levels of rooftop patios, I see that everything is wet. There's a little old lady off on a distant patio trying to haul a chair up a flight of winding, rusty stairs up to her rooftop.
Ron is still sleeping. I'm sure his poor brain is resting up so he can spring into action the minute his eyes pop open and navigate us all over the city, as he always does, every single day. You can't help it if one of you was born with navigational skills, and one of you wasn't.
Once again we had a delightful time with Rosa at breakfast, eating ricotta cheese along with homemade lemon marmalade on toast and as well, fresh oranges with the stems and leaves still attached. Rosa told us she had been a math teacher in a high school here in "Napoli". We each struggled to communicate during breakfast. Ron tried his best flipping through our Italian dictionary.
After breakfast, we went back to our room to plan our day around my "cooking lesson" with Vincenzo (pronounced Venchenzo) at 3:00 pm.
We decided to work our way towards the Vittorio Emanuele Funicolare Centrale Napoli (the tram) which will take us up to an area called San Martino. Once we got off the tram, we emerged into a different world. Right away I look into a doorway and see a gigantic pot of Bird of Paradise blooming. You don't see exotic flowers at home, unless you're at a florist. We crossed Piazza Ferdinando Fuga and noticed it was different up here - fairly upper scale, with nice buildings and well dressed people. I noticed quite a few darkly tanned, leathery skinned ladies in nice clothing, walking along with big handbags.
The first thing we did was look for a cafe and we found one called Tiffany Cafe for our coffee and croissants which were filled with chocolate and fruit. It was sunny and bright out. People were standing around smoking. We've noticed smoking seems quite prevalent here.
The Tiffany cafe is situated on a corner at a four way stop. Only the thing is - there is no such thing as stopping. There's is an endless competition between cars, trucks, pedestrians and scooters inching their way across the intersection. The scooters win out everytime. Cars nose across the cobblestone almost touching the vehicles crossing in front of them. Amazing. Not one accident! If one unfortunate driver hesitates, he is reminded instantly with a loud, sustained beep to GET moving. A huge truck with endless strips of garlic bulbs, chugs up and makes its way around the corner.
Ron tried to pick up tips for driving, since when we leave Casa Chiara, we'll be picking up a car to drive to our next destination - Orvieto (and the thing is - we have to drive out of Naples).
Just as we get up to leave, a lady, one hand on the steering wheel, the other holding a cigarette out the window, nudges across the intersection in her tiny car loudly singing, "The Circle of Life" in Italian, from the movie The Lion King. Everyone looks at each other.
We left and walked along until we saw the Castel Sant'Elmo. (An ancient Fort from 1329.) For ten euro, you can get the best (the word best is so ridiculous) view of this incredibly, beautiful city and the Bay.
When we got back down to the bottom of the old castle, we look around for a washroom, which we already know are few and far between. We ask the girl who sold us our tickets, and of course she waves that the washrooms are at the top of the castle (where we just came from).
One good thing to know is that the businesses in this city are required by law to let you come in and use their facilities.
We took the Funiculare back down to our street and stopped at Caffe Toraldo for a small dish of penne with pomodoro and a glass of Pinot Grigio. Delicious. Ron opted for a bag of San Carlo Sticki (your basic bag of Hickory Sticks chips), vivace style -that means "spicy-hot". I said, "Ron! We're in Italy for crying out loud..."
I'm gathering up courage to go face the boys at Regine Pizzeria, where Vincenzo (owner) will be waiting to greet me for my lesson.
I was right, he was there waiting with a pleasant smile. He brought me into the kitchen, and introduced me to the staff. Of course I felt a bit awkward at first, but all the staff were so pleasant and welcoming. I met Amedeo, who is a Cameriere (waiter), Alberto, (chef), Vincenzo ( second chef), Niaushad (dishwasher,) and Luigi (cameriere), as well as Pasquale (pizza chef). All were born in Naples, except Naushad who came from Ceylon seven years ago. When Naushad discovered I was Canadian, he wondered if I might be interested in sponsoring him to come on over to Canada.
Vincenzo showed me each station in the tiny kitchen. There was the salad, meat, pasta and the sauce station, the chopping and dishwashing area, as well as a large wood - burning pizza oven to the side.
Sadly, they don't make their own pasta, but it all comes from right here in Naples, I was told. I help out Vincenzo with chopping up vegetables, but mostly I observed a variety of foods being prepared. Vincenzo asks me if I can come back tomorrow when he will be "doing the fish (peche) preparation." I say, Yes, and wonder if anyone will notice the close pin on my nose, since I do not like the smell of fish. At the same time, I think how lucky I am to have an opportunity to be immersed in this culture with these lovely people for this brief moment in time!
Ron and I left Regine and journied back into the streets of Naples to try a famous pizzeria called Di Matteo Pizzeria e Friggitoria founded in 1936. Earlier, Vincenzo had offered Ron a pizza "on the house", but Ron said, "No thanks!" I guess he still felt full from his hickory sticks.
We tried Crocche (potato deep fried). I know you're thinking, well isn't that a French fry? Well no, is all I can say. We ordered Pizze Margherita Al Prosciutto, and Pizze Capricciosa. This time, the entrance to this Pizzeria WAS through the kitchen right past the cooks. We found a table in this very busy, colorless, little place, where a paper table cloth was quickly flung over a dark, wooden table, and our order was taken "Pronto".
Ron started telling me that he's really happy he has quite a few different colors of the shirts he now has on. He says he may just keep them forever, especially the orange one and the blue one.
As we sat, in walked a couple with matching red hats and jackets. This form of dress always attracts attention. They sat down at the table beside us. The guy leaned over and said to me, "Way you fum?" I said, "Canada, where are you from?" He said, "Safascisco!" and then proceeded to tell us about their recent cruise. "That's nice. Did you have fun?" I asked. "Very fun!" he said. His wife was busy bobbing around snapping pictures of the cooks.
We noticed the cooks suddenly catch a break at a table about about seven feet from us. Suddenly there are four of them that sit down. Each has a huge plate of pasta, which it appears, must be consumed quickly. Some finish, jump up, and then others sit down for their turn. We notice one Chef stands up and has a hole in the rear of his checkered pants, and a cigarette hanging out one side of the mouth. He quickly returns to his station, working away, placing pizza and pasta orders on a dumbwaiter to go upstairs where other guests are seated. The whole restaurant works like a well- oiled machine.
On the way out, Ron decides to use one of the few washrooms in Naples. A guy is in there cleaning it. He motions for Ron to use the other one, The Ladies. There's someone in there, who screams at him to blabbetty-blabbetty (which Ron interprets as "GO USE THE MAN'S".
We left, and Ron in his cheerful manner says, "Hey! Do you want to go into the Duomo?" Not really, I say. We go anyway and he walked around taking in the glory and majesty of another cathedral, while I sat quietly in a pew in the back. Ron comes over and insists I follow him to a very beautiful room with black marble columns. Reluctantly, I followed and came into a large side room which is impossible to describe - full of exquisite marble flooring, sculptures and beautiful paintings. Also, there was gold and silver glistening on the altar. I saw candles burning at the front, and decided to light a candle in honor of my sweet grandmother who had so recently passed away May 7th. I stare at the candle and think, "I love you, I miss you", and shed some tears...
We drag ourselves through the cobblestone streets and take the Funiculare back to Casa Chiara. Thank goodness for this tram system!
Tomorrow will be busy because first, we have to get up early, meet a new couple from Turin, Italy at Rosa's breakfast table and then head off to my "Fish" lesson with Vincenzo. Also, we planned to see a Palace, walk the promenade along the water, and video tape the amazing streets of Naples on our last day!
The first thing I do in the morning these days, is step out onto the balcony to view Vesuvius (the top of which is covered in cloud and fog this morning), and the Bay of Naples, as well as the Isle of Capri. I see two large cruise ships in the Bay this morning. We must have had a huge rainfall in the night, because as I look across the various levels of rooftop patios, I see that everything is wet. There's a little old lady off on a distant patio trying to haul a chair up a flight of winding, rusty stairs up to her rooftop.
Ron is still sleeping. I'm sure his poor brain is resting up so he can spring into action the minute his eyes pop open and navigate us all over the city, as he always does, every single day. You can't help it if one of you was born with navigational skills, and one of you wasn't.
Once again we had a delightful time with Rosa at breakfast, eating ricotta cheese along with homemade lemon marmalade on toast and as well, fresh oranges with the stems and leaves still attached. Rosa told us she had been a math teacher in a high school here in "Napoli". We each struggled to communicate during breakfast. Ron tried his best flipping through our Italian dictionary.
After breakfast, we went back to our room to plan our day around my "cooking lesson" with Vincenzo (pronounced Venchenzo) at 3:00 pm.
We decided to work our way towards the Vittorio Emanuele Funicolare Centrale Napoli (the tram) which will take us up to an area called San Martino. Once we got off the tram, we emerged into a different world. Right away I look into a doorway and see a gigantic pot of Bird of Paradise blooming. You don't see exotic flowers at home, unless you're at a florist. We crossed Piazza Ferdinando Fuga and noticed it was different up here - fairly upper scale, with nice buildings and well dressed people. I noticed quite a few darkly tanned, leathery skinned ladies in nice clothing, walking along with big handbags.
The first thing we did was look for a cafe and we found one called Tiffany Cafe for our coffee and croissants which were filled with chocolate and fruit. It was sunny and bright out. People were standing around smoking. We've noticed smoking seems quite prevalent here.
The Tiffany cafe is situated on a corner at a four way stop. Only the thing is - there is no such thing as stopping. There's is an endless competition between cars, trucks, pedestrians and scooters inching their way across the intersection. The scooters win out everytime. Cars nose across the cobblestone almost touching the vehicles crossing in front of them. Amazing. Not one accident! If one unfortunate driver hesitates, he is reminded instantly with a loud, sustained beep to GET moving. A huge truck with endless strips of garlic bulbs, chugs up and makes its way around the corner.
Ron tried to pick up tips for driving, since when we leave Casa Chiara, we'll be picking up a car to drive to our next destination - Orvieto (and the thing is - we have to drive out of Naples).
Just as we get up to leave, a lady, one hand on the steering wheel, the other holding a cigarette out the window, nudges across the intersection in her tiny car loudly singing, "The Circle of Life" in Italian, from the movie The Lion King. Everyone looks at each other.
We left and walked along until we saw the Castel Sant'Elmo. (An ancient Fort from 1329.) For ten euro, you can get the best (the word best is so ridiculous) view of this incredibly, beautiful city and the Bay.
When we got back down to the bottom of the old castle, we look around for a washroom, which we already know are few and far between. We ask the girl who sold us our tickets, and of course she waves that the washrooms are at the top of the castle (where we just came from).
One good thing to know is that the businesses in this city are required by law to let you come in and use their facilities.
We took the Funiculare back down to our street and stopped at Caffe Toraldo for a small dish of penne with pomodoro and a glass of Pinot Grigio. Delicious. Ron opted for a bag of San Carlo Sticki (your basic bag of Hickory Sticks chips), vivace style -that means "spicy-hot". I said, "Ron! We're in Italy for crying out loud..."
I'm gathering up courage to go face the boys at Regine Pizzeria, where Vincenzo (owner) will be waiting to greet me for my lesson.
I was right, he was there waiting with a pleasant smile. He brought me into the kitchen, and introduced me to the staff. Of course I felt a bit awkward at first, but all the staff were so pleasant and welcoming. I met Amedeo, who is a Cameriere (waiter), Alberto, (chef), Vincenzo ( second chef), Niaushad (dishwasher,) and Luigi (cameriere), as well as Pasquale (pizza chef). All were born in Naples, except Naushad who came from Ceylon seven years ago. When Naushad discovered I was Canadian, he wondered if I might be interested in sponsoring him to come on over to Canada.
Vincenzo showed me each station in the tiny kitchen. There was the salad, meat, pasta and the sauce station, the chopping and dishwashing area, as well as a large wood - burning pizza oven to the side.
Sadly, they don't make their own pasta, but it all comes from right here in Naples, I was told. I help out Vincenzo with chopping up vegetables, but mostly I observed a variety of foods being prepared. Vincenzo asks me if I can come back tomorrow when he will be "doing the fish (peche) preparation." I say, Yes, and wonder if anyone will notice the close pin on my nose, since I do not like the smell of fish. At the same time, I think how lucky I am to have an opportunity to be immersed in this culture with these lovely people for this brief moment in time!
Ron and I left Regine and journied back into the streets of Naples to try a famous pizzeria called Di Matteo Pizzeria e Friggitoria founded in 1936. Earlier, Vincenzo had offered Ron a pizza "on the house", but Ron said, "No thanks!" I guess he still felt full from his hickory sticks.
We tried Crocche (potato deep fried). I know you're thinking, well isn't that a French fry? Well no, is all I can say. We ordered Pizze Margherita Al Prosciutto, and Pizze Capricciosa. This time, the entrance to this Pizzeria WAS through the kitchen right past the cooks. We found a table in this very busy, colorless, little place, where a paper table cloth was quickly flung over a dark, wooden table, and our order was taken "Pronto".
Ron started telling me that he's really happy he has quite a few different colors of the shirts he now has on. He says he may just keep them forever, especially the orange one and the blue one.
As we sat, in walked a couple with matching red hats and jackets. This form of dress always attracts attention. They sat down at the table beside us. The guy leaned over and said to me, "Way you fum?" I said, "Canada, where are you from?" He said, "Safascisco!" and then proceeded to tell us about their recent cruise. "That's nice. Did you have fun?" I asked. "Very fun!" he said. His wife was busy bobbing around snapping pictures of the cooks.
We noticed the cooks suddenly catch a break at a table about about seven feet from us. Suddenly there are four of them that sit down. Each has a huge plate of pasta, which it appears, must be consumed quickly. Some finish, jump up, and then others sit down for their turn. We notice one Chef stands up and has a hole in the rear of his checkered pants, and a cigarette hanging out one side of the mouth. He quickly returns to his station, working away, placing pizza and pasta orders on a dumbwaiter to go upstairs where other guests are seated. The whole restaurant works like a well- oiled machine.
On the way out, Ron decides to use one of the few washrooms in Naples. A guy is in there cleaning it. He motions for Ron to use the other one, The Ladies. There's someone in there, who screams at him to blabbetty-blabbetty (which Ron interprets as "GO USE THE MAN'S".
We left, and Ron in his cheerful manner says, "Hey! Do you want to go into the Duomo?" Not really, I say. We go anyway and he walked around taking in the glory and majesty of another cathedral, while I sat quietly in a pew in the back. Ron comes over and insists I follow him to a very beautiful room with black marble columns. Reluctantly, I followed and came into a large side room which is impossible to describe - full of exquisite marble flooring, sculptures and beautiful paintings. Also, there was gold and silver glistening on the altar. I saw candles burning at the front, and decided to light a candle in honor of my sweet grandmother who had so recently passed away May 7th. I stare at the candle and think, "I love you, I miss you", and shed some tears...
We drag ourselves through the cobblestone streets and take the Funiculare back to Casa Chiara. Thank goodness for this tram system!
Tomorrow will be busy because first, we have to get up early, meet a new couple from Turin, Italy at Rosa's breakfast table and then head off to my "Fish" lesson with Vincenzo. Also, we planned to see a Palace, walk the promenade along the water, and video tape the amazing streets of Naples on our last day!
Thursday 23 May 2013
The streets of Naples, the Historical Centrale
Hello Family and Friends!
We awoke to a downpour of rain this morning. The sky looked hazy out across the Bay of Naples. Last night we witnessed the most spectacular display of lightening flashing across the Bay for several hours, and then the roaring thunder following.
The forecast for today is for 19 degrees with chance of rain, but we are going to make the best of it, anyway. I'm just hoping to make it through the day without getting my eyes poked out by somebody's umbrella prongs. It's up to you to keep yourself safe here you know. Same goes for crossing the road on a green light. I've already noticed - they use their horns continuously, just to let you know that idiocy of any kind will not be tolerated.
I got ready and went to see Rosa, who had our breakfast set out. Ron was soon coming. I felt bad, because the evening before (while observing the lightening show), I accidentally kicked over two empty wine glasses which Ron had placed on the floor. Of course they smashed to bits against the marble floor. We were both horrified. I said I'd apologize to Rosa when I saw her. But when I saw her, I just couldn't admit I did it, so I said, "Ron is so sorry he kicked over your wine glasses last night." Then I saw Ron coming up the stairs with a look of utter astonishment. I did feel a stab of guilt, and I realize I shouldn't have done this, but you had to be there. Rosa smiled and said she had lots of glasses.
Rosa sat with us for breakfast, and we enjoyed bread, cheese, meat, fruit and coffee. Rosa struggled to speak English and suddenly asked, "Do you speak French?" She said, "I find French easier to speak than English!" Sadly, we shook our heads, No. Although we come from a "bilingual country", we only know a few words and phrases in French. Rosa then called loudly down the stairs to her friend Franco to come up and help her out with "the English". He came to the table to speak with us and help us get our bearings for the day. Franco went to University in Naples for four years and is now Headmaster at a secondary institution in Naples. He drives in from the Salerno area (Paestum), where he grows lemons and loves the farming business. He brought Rosa a huge basket of lemons from his farm. Even though we had finished our breakfast, Rosa brought a large bowl of buffalo mozzarella cheese balls to the table. I asked where were the buffalo in Italy? Franco stated that there were around 30,000 buffalo in the Salerno area and only 7,000 people! I asked the cost of the mozzarella cheese balls here, and Franco stated they cost 12 euro for 1 kilo, which is around 20 balls of cheese, if you were to buy them at the store. So we finished up and went out into the street of Naples.
Dark, smelly, steamy, crowded, noisy, are words that come to mind when I think of these streets. Large areas of fresh fish on tables, large pieces of tripe hanging in windows with continuous dripping of water over it for moisture. In windows freshly skinned rabbits hung. On corners were vast arrays of fresh, colourful vegetables. Women were seen navigating cobblestone streets with spiky high heels. Scooters wove in and out, beeping constantly.
We emerged onto a sunny Piazza Gesu and entered a monstrous, ornate cathedral named Chiesa Dell'Immacolata Al Gesu Nuovo. We did a quick tour, came out, and noted two women engaged in a passionate display of affection, which caught us off guard.
Then we went onto to Basilica Di S. Chiara, a gothic cathedral recommended in tour books. These cathedrals are all majestic and glorious, and there is nothing like them at home.
Back outside we observed the same dark haired women we had seen at the train station. This time they wore sparkly shirts, long T-shirts, black tights, high heels and toted large, black leather purses, all the while passing out the plastic cup. One stood talking loudly on a mobile.
We decided it was time for coffee, so we stopped at Geco Caffe. Suddenly, it was cloudy, windy and chilly again. - but fortunately we never got rain while out today. Believe it or not, we left this cafe, and started down the street, only to see another cool looking cafe called Caffe Intra Moenia situated on a lovely patio surrounded by exotic plants such as jasmine and star flower. We also noted a few palm trees. We were breathing in the beauty of this patio, when suddenly the caffe was infiltrated with a tour group of 30 or so bored-looking individuals who crashed in and took every chair in sight. Sigh...
We then resumed our walk through tiny, dark, narrow streets and stopped at Antica Pizzeria & Friggitoria I Ducumani, which was a highly recommended pizzeria in Naples. This was a really fun experience. The entrance was not apparent, and Ron tried entering through the kitchen, walking right past the giant pizza oven, until a blond lady standing outside on a smoke break, saw us and motioned for us to follow her. She pointed to one tiny table left in the corner and waved us to it, then yelled at the waitress. The place was packed full of locals. The people at the table next to us tried to explain and recommend things on the menu. These are truly the greatest moments! There were lots of older people being served gigantic pizzas! How do they eat a pizza fourteen inches across? We started with some recommendations which I never did get the name of...and then shared a marguerita pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, a few basil leaves and a ball of buffalo mozzarella placed in the centre. We left the pizzeria and stopped in the Basilica S. Paolo Maggiore built in 1626 right next door. How could we not stop in?
We walked around the narrow streets and ended up on yet another piazza called Santa Domenico Maggiore where we had some wine and sat in the sun for a few hours watching the world go by. It does seem like we stop alot, I know...It's quiet in the afternoons because most businesses and stores close between 2-4:00 pm, so things seem much calmer. We talked about travel and how fortunate we were to be in this gritty, dark - but fascinating city once again.
After, we decided to make our way down the Via Toledo street to Il Castel Nuovo, an ancient fortress by the water. On the way, we came upon the stunning Umberto Gallery, a beautiful, ornate structure with a glass roof which houses stores, shops and businesses. We toured the fortress and then found the Funiculare (a subway built on an incline), and which transported us all the way back up to the street where we needed to go. We headed over to a tiny store and bought some snacks for the evening.
Now, we're back at Rosa's leaning over our balcony, enveloped in the the view yet again. In the background, we can hear the roar of a concert at the Piazza Plebiscito, where Bruce Springsteen is performing live...
The forecast for today is for 19 degrees with chance of rain, but we are going to make the best of it, anyway. I'm just hoping to make it through the day without getting my eyes poked out by somebody's umbrella prongs. It's up to you to keep yourself safe here you know. Same goes for crossing the road on a green light. I've already noticed - they use their horns continuously, just to let you know that idiocy of any kind will not be tolerated.
I got ready and went to see Rosa, who had our breakfast set out. Ron was soon coming. I felt bad, because the evening before (while observing the lightening show), I accidentally kicked over two empty wine glasses which Ron had placed on the floor. Of course they smashed to bits against the marble floor. We were both horrified. I said I'd apologize to Rosa when I saw her. But when I saw her, I just couldn't admit I did it, so I said, "Ron is so sorry he kicked over your wine glasses last night." Then I saw Ron coming up the stairs with a look of utter astonishment. I did feel a stab of guilt, and I realize I shouldn't have done this, but you had to be there. Rosa smiled and said she had lots of glasses.
Rosa sat with us for breakfast, and we enjoyed bread, cheese, meat, fruit and coffee. Rosa struggled to speak English and suddenly asked, "Do you speak French?" She said, "I find French easier to speak than English!" Sadly, we shook our heads, No. Although we come from a "bilingual country", we only know a few words and phrases in French. Rosa then called loudly down the stairs to her friend Franco to come up and help her out with "the English". He came to the table to speak with us and help us get our bearings for the day. Franco went to University in Naples for four years and is now Headmaster at a secondary institution in Naples. He drives in from the Salerno area (Paestum), where he grows lemons and loves the farming business. He brought Rosa a huge basket of lemons from his farm. Even though we had finished our breakfast, Rosa brought a large bowl of buffalo mozzarella cheese balls to the table. I asked where were the buffalo in Italy? Franco stated that there were around 30,000 buffalo in the Salerno area and only 7,000 people! I asked the cost of the mozzarella cheese balls here, and Franco stated they cost 12 euro for 1 kilo, which is around 20 balls of cheese, if you were to buy them at the store. So we finished up and went out into the street of Naples.
Dark, smelly, steamy, crowded, noisy, are words that come to mind when I think of these streets. Large areas of fresh fish on tables, large pieces of tripe hanging in windows with continuous dripping of water over it for moisture. In windows freshly skinned rabbits hung. On corners were vast arrays of fresh, colourful vegetables. Women were seen navigating cobblestone streets with spiky high heels. Scooters wove in and out, beeping constantly.
We emerged onto a sunny Piazza Gesu and entered a monstrous, ornate cathedral named Chiesa Dell'Immacolata Al Gesu Nuovo. We did a quick tour, came out, and noted two women engaged in a passionate display of affection, which caught us off guard.
Then we went onto to Basilica Di S. Chiara, a gothic cathedral recommended in tour books. These cathedrals are all majestic and glorious, and there is nothing like them at home.
Back outside we observed the same dark haired women we had seen at the train station. This time they wore sparkly shirts, long T-shirts, black tights, high heels and toted large, black leather purses, all the while passing out the plastic cup. One stood talking loudly on a mobile.
We decided it was time for coffee, so we stopped at Geco Caffe. Suddenly, it was cloudy, windy and chilly again. - but fortunately we never got rain while out today. Believe it or not, we left this cafe, and started down the street, only to see another cool looking cafe called Caffe Intra Moenia situated on a lovely patio surrounded by exotic plants such as jasmine and star flower. We also noted a few palm trees. We were breathing in the beauty of this patio, when suddenly the caffe was infiltrated with a tour group of 30 or so bored-looking individuals who crashed in and took every chair in sight. Sigh...
We then resumed our walk through tiny, dark, narrow streets and stopped at Antica Pizzeria & Friggitoria I Ducumani, which was a highly recommended pizzeria in Naples. This was a really fun experience. The entrance was not apparent, and Ron tried entering through the kitchen, walking right past the giant pizza oven, until a blond lady standing outside on a smoke break, saw us and motioned for us to follow her. She pointed to one tiny table left in the corner and waved us to it, then yelled at the waitress. The place was packed full of locals. The people at the table next to us tried to explain and recommend things on the menu. These are truly the greatest moments! There were lots of older people being served gigantic pizzas! How do they eat a pizza fourteen inches across? We started with some recommendations which I never did get the name of...and then shared a marguerita pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, a few basil leaves and a ball of buffalo mozzarella placed in the centre. We left the pizzeria and stopped in the Basilica S. Paolo Maggiore built in 1626 right next door. How could we not stop in?
We walked around the narrow streets and ended up on yet another piazza called Santa Domenico Maggiore where we had some wine and sat in the sun for a few hours watching the world go by. It does seem like we stop alot, I know...It's quiet in the afternoons because most businesses and stores close between 2-4:00 pm, so things seem much calmer. We talked about travel and how fortunate we were to be in this gritty, dark - but fascinating city once again.
After, we decided to make our way down the Via Toledo street to Il Castel Nuovo, an ancient fortress by the water. On the way, we came upon the stunning Umberto Gallery, a beautiful, ornate structure with a glass roof which houses stores, shops and businesses. We toured the fortress and then found the Funiculare (a subway built on an incline), and which transported us all the way back up to the street where we needed to go. We headed over to a tiny store and bought some snacks for the evening.
Now, we're back at Rosa's leaning over our balcony, enveloped in the the view yet again. In the background, we can hear the roar of a concert at the Piazza Plebiscito, where Bruce Springsteen is performing live...
Wednesday 22 May 2013
Naples
Hello Friends and Family:
Today was our last day at Villa Rosa with Sister Christina. At breakfast, we discovered some of the guests missing. We learned that they had risen early to beat the crowds (approximately 40,000 people) to St. Peter's Square to hear the Pope speak for about 2 hours. Apparently he does this every Wednesday, and then drives through the mob in the Pope Mobile to greet people.
We left Villa Rosa and took a cab to Roma Termini station to catch a train to Naples. We arrived at the station and paid 15 Euro for a ten minute drive and two pieces of luggage.
The train station was buzzing with activity and people were criss-crossing in every direction. Our tickets purchased, we walked down to Chef Express to get coffee, all the while keeping our eyes peeled, as we were aware that we could be beaten or robbed at any moment, (as everyone kept telling us). "Watch out for gypsies, tramps, thieves and pickpockets lurking about!" We were warned they could throw a blanket over our heads to confuse us. Nothing like appearing at the station looking like two scared rabbits.
That said, we did observe several, dark haired plumpish women in black clothing and gold jewellery circulating through the crowds with plastic cups and very sad faces. Some, wore colourful clothing and had parked themselves strategically in different places. They sat on the ground with backs against the walls - water bottle on one side, leather purse on the other side, and plastic cup for alms collection placed just so. Ron noticed one lady who had been very busy collecting alms - meet up with a colleague for a lively visit over coffee and snacks at Chef Express. Soon the visit ended, and each one went off to the assigned area to work the crowds yet again. Unfortunately they do forget sometimes, that they have already approached you. Maybe they are hoping you have a poor memory! Alas, we stayed on guard, but suddently I looked down and my suitcase was missing (just kidding)...
Soon the time rolled around for us to get on the train which took one hour and ten minutes at 300 kms per hour to get us to Naples. The scenery from the window was beautiful - lush, and green with hazy, purplish mountains in the background.
We arrived in Naples, and I could feel my anxiety level rise a bit, at the memory of being ripped off in the train station here once before by someone who seemed to be "helping us." Next, we needed a cab to take us to our new B&B for the next four days - a new destination called Casa Chiara. Ron had a vigorous negotiation session with the driver who, yelling and waving his arms around wanted the "fair price" of 25 euro. We were told it should not cost one cent more than 12 euro. We paid 18. Either that or spend the night at the Naples train station. So, the driver wove his tiny car through gritty streets, dense traffic and past graffiti stained walls. In dismay, I looked around and wondered why we decided to come and actually STAY here this time. Vespas and scooters zigzagged willy-nilly through traffic. Scooters drove by with child in front, Dad in the middle, and Mom on the back. No helmets noted.
Naples has a very different personality from Rome. Rome seems to me like the beautiful, exquisite sister, and when you come to Naples you feel like you've been introduced to her wild, dark, and adventurous sister!
Happily we arrived at Casa Chiara and were greeted by a tiny, old lady named Rosa who has a lovely, kind face, a soft voice, beautiful smile, and who struggled with English. Rosa took us on a tour of her home which was just unbelievable. It's very old, with exquisite antiques and silver and lovely pictures everywhere. She showed us our room, and opened the doors to our balcony from which Mt. Vesuvius loomed ahead across the Bay of Naples. Also plainly visible was the Isle of Capri. We were so happy with this and then she escorted us to the roof top patio! We are the only guests in this home right now.
We ask Rosa where we could go for lunch and she directed us down the street to Regine Pizzeria Ristorante. I asked Rosa if the neighborhood was safe in the evening. In broken English, she tells me it is, but that I should just remove my jewellery. Anyway, off we go to the Pizzeria. Bright, green walls, and a steady stream of people coming and going. I observe a man making pizzas at lightening speed. The pizza was great, along with the service. The place seemed a little unusual in that there were a variety of loud, speaking men traipsing by us from time to time into what seemed to be the kitchen. I feel a little skeptical, as this is the place where I'm supposed to have a cooking lesson (arranged by Rosa), but Ron encourages me onward. He says he's sure the guys will just be thinking things like, "I wonder if she drives a vespa" , or "I wonder which church she goes to" - you know, things like that. As we exit, I met a very large man who was seated outside the restaurant. He's the owner and his name is Vincenza."Oh," he exclaims, "you are from Casa Chiara! Why you not say earlier?" I mention the cooking lesson, and he tells me to come on Friday between 2 and 4:00 pm, and he'll teach me everything about the kitchen. Of course, Ron will be sitting there eating pizza the whole time I'm having my lesson.
We stopped at another cafe called Gastronoma on a corner with bright, red tables and ordered two coffees. One thing we observed - not everyone speaks English here. All around we watchedbustling traffic, and tooting scooters trying to maneuver through the teensiest of spots. We left the cafe and started back to Casa Chiara, and were caught in a downpour on our way. The evening was windy and grey - but when we arrived back at Casa Chiara, opened the windows and looked out at the view from our balcony which just took our breath away. It's dark and cloudy with lightning to the south of the bay past Sorrento...
Today was our last day at Villa Rosa with Sister Christina. At breakfast, we discovered some of the guests missing. We learned that they had risen early to beat the crowds (approximately 40,000 people) to St. Peter's Square to hear the Pope speak for about 2 hours. Apparently he does this every Wednesday, and then drives through the mob in the Pope Mobile to greet people.
We left Villa Rosa and took a cab to Roma Termini station to catch a train to Naples. We arrived at the station and paid 15 Euro for a ten minute drive and two pieces of luggage.
The train station was buzzing with activity and people were criss-crossing in every direction. Our tickets purchased, we walked down to Chef Express to get coffee, all the while keeping our eyes peeled, as we were aware that we could be beaten or robbed at any moment, (as everyone kept telling us). "Watch out for gypsies, tramps, thieves and pickpockets lurking about!" We were warned they could throw a blanket over our heads to confuse us. Nothing like appearing at the station looking like two scared rabbits.
That said, we did observe several, dark haired plumpish women in black clothing and gold jewellery circulating through the crowds with plastic cups and very sad faces. Some, wore colourful clothing and had parked themselves strategically in different places. They sat on the ground with backs against the walls - water bottle on one side, leather purse on the other side, and plastic cup for alms collection placed just so. Ron noticed one lady who had been very busy collecting alms - meet up with a colleague for a lively visit over coffee and snacks at Chef Express. Soon the visit ended, and each one went off to the assigned area to work the crowds yet again. Unfortunately they do forget sometimes, that they have already approached you. Maybe they are hoping you have a poor memory! Alas, we stayed on guard, but suddently I looked down and my suitcase was missing (just kidding)...
Soon the time rolled around for us to get on the train which took one hour and ten minutes at 300 kms per hour to get us to Naples. The scenery from the window was beautiful - lush, and green with hazy, purplish mountains in the background.
We arrived in Naples, and I could feel my anxiety level rise a bit, at the memory of being ripped off in the train station here once before by someone who seemed to be "helping us." Next, we needed a cab to take us to our new B&B for the next four days - a new destination called Casa Chiara. Ron had a vigorous negotiation session with the driver who, yelling and waving his arms around wanted the "fair price" of 25 euro. We were told it should not cost one cent more than 12 euro. We paid 18. Either that or spend the night at the Naples train station. So, the driver wove his tiny car through gritty streets, dense traffic and past graffiti stained walls. In dismay, I looked around and wondered why we decided to come and actually STAY here this time. Vespas and scooters zigzagged willy-nilly through traffic. Scooters drove by with child in front, Dad in the middle, and Mom on the back. No helmets noted.
Naples has a very different personality from Rome. Rome seems to me like the beautiful, exquisite sister, and when you come to Naples you feel like you've been introduced to her wild, dark, and adventurous sister!
Happily we arrived at Casa Chiara and were greeted by a tiny, old lady named Rosa who has a lovely, kind face, a soft voice, beautiful smile, and who struggled with English. Rosa took us on a tour of her home which was just unbelievable. It's very old, with exquisite antiques and silver and lovely pictures everywhere. She showed us our room, and opened the doors to our balcony from which Mt. Vesuvius loomed ahead across the Bay of Naples. Also plainly visible was the Isle of Capri. We were so happy with this and then she escorted us to the roof top patio! We are the only guests in this home right now.
We ask Rosa where we could go for lunch and she directed us down the street to Regine Pizzeria Ristorante. I asked Rosa if the neighborhood was safe in the evening. In broken English, she tells me it is, but that I should just remove my jewellery. Anyway, off we go to the Pizzeria. Bright, green walls, and a steady stream of people coming and going. I observe a man making pizzas at lightening speed. The pizza was great, along with the service. The place seemed a little unusual in that there were a variety of loud, speaking men traipsing by us from time to time into what seemed to be the kitchen. I feel a little skeptical, as this is the place where I'm supposed to have a cooking lesson (arranged by Rosa), but Ron encourages me onward. He says he's sure the guys will just be thinking things like, "I wonder if she drives a vespa" , or "I wonder which church she goes to" - you know, things like that. As we exit, I met a very large man who was seated outside the restaurant. He's the owner and his name is Vincenza."Oh," he exclaims, "you are from Casa Chiara! Why you not say earlier?" I mention the cooking lesson, and he tells me to come on Friday between 2 and 4:00 pm, and he'll teach me everything about the kitchen. Of course, Ron will be sitting there eating pizza the whole time I'm having my lesson.
We stopped at another cafe called Gastronoma on a corner with bright, red tables and ordered two coffees. One thing we observed - not everyone speaks English here. All around we watchedbustling traffic, and tooting scooters trying to maneuver through the teensiest of spots. We left the cafe and started back to Casa Chiara, and were caught in a downpour on our way. The evening was windy and grey - but when we arrived back at Casa Chiara, opened the windows and looked out at the view from our balcony which just took our breath away. It's dark and cloudy with lightning to the south of the bay past Sorrento...
Tuesday 21 May 2013
Il Vittoriano, Bus Tour, E. Volpetti, and Trastevere
Good evening friends and family!
We had another great day in this glorious city. The longer I'm here, the more I realize what a fascinating place this is! Sister Christina told Ron and I this morning that Rome had now replaced Paris as the most visited city in the world. I was a bit skeptical, but I kept my thoughts to myself. Sister Christina (whom Ron has mistakenly referred to as Sister Catherine a few times) is the lovely Irish woman who oversees the guests at Villa Rosa.
Our day started with a crusty roll with a few jam options, coffee and orange juice. The fun part was visiting and laughing with a variety of people from different countries in the breakfast room. This has always been one of our favorite experiences in staying at B&B's while travelling.
We talked about how Rome is full of ruins poking themselves out of every corner and street. Christina said she knew of people in the area who had built structures or had renovated homes and had inadvertently discovered mosaic flooring deep in the ground. They didn't dare report it to anyone (especially the Art Society) because they could come and spend the next 9 years digging on your property and too bad about your house or business!
We then left our lively breakfast discussion and went back to the Jewish Quarter to a bakery with luscious goods. I stood in line and pointed to a well done cheese pie and asked the lady if they cut slices. She brought a big knife over and sternly demanded, "What you want? Cherria, chocolata, or cheesa?" A dark haired pleasant Italian looked at me and said , "Donta worry, she's known all over for her rudeness, but the food is delicious!" And he was right. Besides, the lady did give me a tiny smile when she handed me my slice of ricotta/cherry pie.
And then off to the Sheva cafe for coffee where we sat for a long time and observed the bustling activity of the locals. You can see this if you go to these areas early!
We left there and went walking through the streets poking our heads into any cool, hidden places that looked interesting. I looked across the street and saw a double decker tour bus which was stopped, and went over to inquire. This turned out to be a true highlight. We sat on the upper level and went on a non-stop bus tour around the city. The tour lasted for one hour and was really interesting. The guide pointed out things like the balcony where Mussolini gave speeches from; the residence of the Italian president, and as well pointed out many historical sights that one could not possibly know of outside of a lot of personal study. The bus was called "Sightseeing Tours of Rome" and was well worth 10 euro each!
We then went to a magnificent structure called IL Vittoriano. (If you are interested, please look it up). The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is here and is guarded by two soldiers. On this terrace, we were surprised to see an elevator which took you to the very top where you could view the two large, bronze chariots at either end of the monument. This tour is called Rome From The Sky or Roma Dal Cielo (if you're Italian). This is truly something I'll never forget as you could see a magnicent panorama of the city for only 7 euro each.
We then had lunch (fabulous rigatoni) at "In Roma" on the Real Piazza Della Consolazione. See? Not only are the Italian people beautiful, but their language AND the names of the streets and patios are as as well!
Later...on our way to dinner, we stopped at the E Volpetti on Via Alessandro Volta Street. This is a famous cheese, sausage shop featured on the program called "Two Greedy Italians". It nearly made my eyes pop out, it was so amazing! I would love to have snapped a dozen pictures in there, but you really couldn't because people were in there doing serious shopping ...
We continued on our journey to an area called Trastevere which was highly recommended on Trip Advisor. We loved it! It was full of narrow streets and fascinating shops and restaurants. It was lovely and cool and a little rainy as we walked around this area. We came upon an inviting little restaurant with red and white checkered table cloths and candles burning, called Aristocampo. Outside the restaurant was a sign which read "We Are Against War And The Tourist Menu". (Naturally this caught my attention right away). Again, we had pasta, (more rigatoni) which one can just never get enough of here. We met a Danish couple who were seated at the table beside us (tables seem to be spaced approximately 7 inches apart everywhere). You learn all about your neighbours business, (that is if they revert to the common language of English), because EVERYBODY speaks English - which makes you feel kind of dumb... And Ron, in his usual friendly manner asked ,"So, have you guys ever heard of "Wallander? "They looked at each other in confused silence. I reminded Ron that "Wallander" is actually a Swedish mystery series, not a Danish one. Suddenly our new Danish friend said, "Oh you mean Vallenda!" We smiled, and said "Yes!"
So we thoroughly enjoyed our last full day in Rome. I've been awed by the beauty of this city in all its ancient glory. I'm kind of sorry now that I told Ron to throw only one coin in the Trevi Fountain, since I think I'd love to come back after all.
However, now Ron and I look forward to our next adventure in Naples. We are on the train tomorrow, and may get in a little of Naples before evening...we'll keep you posted!
We had another great day in this glorious city. The longer I'm here, the more I realize what a fascinating place this is! Sister Christina told Ron and I this morning that Rome had now replaced Paris as the most visited city in the world. I was a bit skeptical, but I kept my thoughts to myself. Sister Christina (whom Ron has mistakenly referred to as Sister Catherine a few times) is the lovely Irish woman who oversees the guests at Villa Rosa.
Our day started with a crusty roll with a few jam options, coffee and orange juice. The fun part was visiting and laughing with a variety of people from different countries in the breakfast room. This has always been one of our favorite experiences in staying at B&B's while travelling.
We talked about how Rome is full of ruins poking themselves out of every corner and street. Christina said she knew of people in the area who had built structures or had renovated homes and had inadvertently discovered mosaic flooring deep in the ground. They didn't dare report it to anyone (especially the Art Society) because they could come and spend the next 9 years digging on your property and too bad about your house or business!
We then left our lively breakfast discussion and went back to the Jewish Quarter to a bakery with luscious goods. I stood in line and pointed to a well done cheese pie and asked the lady if they cut slices. She brought a big knife over and sternly demanded, "What you want? Cherria, chocolata, or cheesa?" A dark haired pleasant Italian looked at me and said , "Donta worry, she's known all over for her rudeness, but the food is delicious!" And he was right. Besides, the lady did give me a tiny smile when she handed me my slice of ricotta/cherry pie.
And then off to the Sheva cafe for coffee where we sat for a long time and observed the bustling activity of the locals. You can see this if you go to these areas early!
We left there and went walking through the streets poking our heads into any cool, hidden places that looked interesting. I looked across the street and saw a double decker tour bus which was stopped, and went over to inquire. This turned out to be a true highlight. We sat on the upper level and went on a non-stop bus tour around the city. The tour lasted for one hour and was really interesting. The guide pointed out things like the balcony where Mussolini gave speeches from; the residence of the Italian president, and as well pointed out many historical sights that one could not possibly know of outside of a lot of personal study. The bus was called "Sightseeing Tours of Rome" and was well worth 10 euro each!
We then went to a magnificent structure called IL Vittoriano. (If you are interested, please look it up). The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is here and is guarded by two soldiers. On this terrace, we were surprised to see an elevator which took you to the very top where you could view the two large, bronze chariots at either end of the monument. This tour is called Rome From The Sky or Roma Dal Cielo (if you're Italian). This is truly something I'll never forget as you could see a magnicent panorama of the city for only 7 euro each.
We then had lunch (fabulous rigatoni) at "In Roma" on the Real Piazza Della Consolazione. See? Not only are the Italian people beautiful, but their language AND the names of the streets and patios are as as well!
Later...on our way to dinner, we stopped at the E Volpetti on Via Alessandro Volta Street. This is a famous cheese, sausage shop featured on the program called "Two Greedy Italians". It nearly made my eyes pop out, it was so amazing! I would love to have snapped a dozen pictures in there, but you really couldn't because people were in there doing serious shopping ...
We continued on our journey to an area called Trastevere which was highly recommended on Trip Advisor. We loved it! It was full of narrow streets and fascinating shops and restaurants. It was lovely and cool and a little rainy as we walked around this area. We came upon an inviting little restaurant with red and white checkered table cloths and candles burning, called Aristocampo. Outside the restaurant was a sign which read "We Are Against War And The Tourist Menu". (Naturally this caught my attention right away). Again, we had pasta, (more rigatoni) which one can just never get enough of here. We met a Danish couple who were seated at the table beside us (tables seem to be spaced approximately 7 inches apart everywhere). You learn all about your neighbours business, (that is if they revert to the common language of English), because EVERYBODY speaks English - which makes you feel kind of dumb... And Ron, in his usual friendly manner asked ,"So, have you guys ever heard of "Wallander? "They looked at each other in confused silence. I reminded Ron that "Wallander" is actually a Swedish mystery series, not a Danish one. Suddenly our new Danish friend said, "Oh you mean Vallenda!" We smiled, and said "Yes!"
So we thoroughly enjoyed our last full day in Rome. I've been awed by the beauty of this city in all its ancient glory. I'm kind of sorry now that I told Ron to throw only one coin in the Trevi Fountain, since I think I'd love to come back after all.
However, now Ron and I look forward to our next adventure in Naples. We are on the train tomorrow, and may get in a little of Naples before evening...we'll keep you posted!
Monday 20 May 2013
Trevi Fountain, Spanish steps, Pantheon
Good evening everyone:
Another great day in a glorious city...after breakfast at Villa Rosa, we started our day by returning to the Spanish steps. We first saw the Spanish steps 34 years ago. We took pictures and did not stay long because of the crowds. The area around the Spanish steps was rife with high end shopping. We stopped at an outdoor cafe (which is definitely one of our favourite things to do). The cafe was called Frattina. We paid 13 Euro for 2 coffees and 2 pastries. You just can't think about those things, though.
We then went on to the famous Trevi Fountain, where again, there was a mass of people snapping photos of this magnificent fountain. There is a saying that if you want to return to Rome, you have to toss a coin into the fountain. Ron wanted to do this, and I said "go ahead", but only one coin because I didn't think I would come back to the fountain again. He pushed his way through the mob, snapped a few photos and tossed one coin in, while I leaned up against a wall in the shade. Too hot and too many people.
Of course it was time for another cafe stop at L'Antico Forno Di Piazza Trevi. We sat listening to the beautiful Italian language. Ron said it even sounds good when they talk loudly on cell phones. This cafe was great for watching the people rush by. Some hurriedly eating pizza all folded up, others wandering aimlessly, and still others searching for their tour guide. Sadly, there are always the sobering reminders that some people in this world don't have things as good as you or I do...across from us sat a poor, old man on the road outside the fancy stores.
An accordion player came along and played "That's Amore!" and then of course came around all the tables for a tip. Also right across from us, stood people demonstrating squishy toys for sale, until the cafe owner chased them away.
It was a delightful surprise when the cafe owner brought out free pizza for us to try! I was so happy about this. Ron immediately and with a charitable heart said, "I'm going to give my pizza to the poor man!" Go ahead, I said, and kept mine. Once again, Ron was sternly reprimanded by a second Italian (the cafe owner) about this. "No, no, no!" the owner said and ushered Ron back to his chair. Ron apologized and sat down.
Next, a guy dressed up like a Roman guard walked past us and into the cafe. I wanted to take a picture, but apparently he charged a Euro, so I tried to get one secretly (which didn't work). He took off his big helmet and sat down in his Roman skirt at a table. Ron said he looked like someone from the Hell's Angels, because he had a kerchief wrapped around his head under his helmet.
We left and went through the beautiful Chiesa Di S. Ignazio cathedral in Campo Marzio on our way to the Pantheon. There were huge crowds at the Pantheon.
The best part of the day was returning to the lovely Jewish Quarter in the evening for pizza and pasta at the BaGhetto. I also tried a giant, fried Jewish artichoke. We love the way one is never rushed to pay the tab. The timing is up to you, not like at home in Calgary, where often the bill comes with the meal, or halfway through, or right when your plates are taken!
The evening is lovely here, and when we walk down different streets in areas we have never been, we realize you could be here for a year and still not know the vastness, secrets and great gifts this city has to offer....
Another great day in a glorious city...after breakfast at Villa Rosa, we started our day by returning to the Spanish steps. We first saw the Spanish steps 34 years ago. We took pictures and did not stay long because of the crowds. The area around the Spanish steps was rife with high end shopping. We stopped at an outdoor cafe (which is definitely one of our favourite things to do). The cafe was called Frattina. We paid 13 Euro for 2 coffees and 2 pastries. You just can't think about those things, though.
We then went on to the famous Trevi Fountain, where again, there was a mass of people snapping photos of this magnificent fountain. There is a saying that if you want to return to Rome, you have to toss a coin into the fountain. Ron wanted to do this, and I said "go ahead", but only one coin because I didn't think I would come back to the fountain again. He pushed his way through the mob, snapped a few photos and tossed one coin in, while I leaned up against a wall in the shade. Too hot and too many people.
Of course it was time for another cafe stop at L'Antico Forno Di Piazza Trevi. We sat listening to the beautiful Italian language. Ron said it even sounds good when they talk loudly on cell phones. This cafe was great for watching the people rush by. Some hurriedly eating pizza all folded up, others wandering aimlessly, and still others searching for their tour guide. Sadly, there are always the sobering reminders that some people in this world don't have things as good as you or I do...across from us sat a poor, old man on the road outside the fancy stores.
An accordion player came along and played "That's Amore!" and then of course came around all the tables for a tip. Also right across from us, stood people demonstrating squishy toys for sale, until the cafe owner chased them away.
It was a delightful surprise when the cafe owner brought out free pizza for us to try! I was so happy about this. Ron immediately and with a charitable heart said, "I'm going to give my pizza to the poor man!" Go ahead, I said, and kept mine. Once again, Ron was sternly reprimanded by a second Italian (the cafe owner) about this. "No, no, no!" the owner said and ushered Ron back to his chair. Ron apologized and sat down.
Next, a guy dressed up like a Roman guard walked past us and into the cafe. I wanted to take a picture, but apparently he charged a Euro, so I tried to get one secretly (which didn't work). He took off his big helmet and sat down in his Roman skirt at a table. Ron said he looked like someone from the Hell's Angels, because he had a kerchief wrapped around his head under his helmet.
We left and went through the beautiful Chiesa Di S. Ignazio cathedral in Campo Marzio on our way to the Pantheon. There were huge crowds at the Pantheon.
The best part of the day was returning to the lovely Jewish Quarter in the evening for pizza and pasta at the BaGhetto. I also tried a giant, fried Jewish artichoke. We love the way one is never rushed to pay the tab. The timing is up to you, not like at home in Calgary, where often the bill comes with the meal, or halfway through, or right when your plates are taken!
The evening is lovely here, and when we walk down different streets in areas we have never been, we realize you could be here for a year and still not know the vastness, secrets and great gifts this city has to offer....
Sunday 19 May 2013
The Old Jewish Ghetto, Campo di Fiori and Piazza Navona
Good evening everyone,
First of all I must warn you....this blog isn't for the faint of heart (it's a long story today)! It's 7:30 pm as I'm writing this, and my feet are "cobble-stoned" out for the day. We started our day in the old Jewish quarter of Rome. Fascinating area of four square blocks where between 2,000-5,000 Jewish people once lived. We had a guided tour of the area and learned its sad, but fascinating history. On October 16, 1943, over 1000 Jewish people were rounded up here and sent to Auchwitz.
After our tour we went for a coffee and croissant at a place called Caffe del Portico. Ron went in to order and the guy said "Okay! Sit down! We were enjoying ourselves until we were suddenly swarmed by about 25 teenagers on a tour of some sort. They stood over our table bumping into us and dropping crumbs on us, so sadly we gulped down our coffee and left.
We went to Campo di Fiori and had freshly squeezed pomegranate juice which we have never had before. Delicious! We left there and proceeded to Piazza Navona to view the fountains and see the market. There is also a beautiful cathedral called St. Agnes in Agone which we went into. We were sternly warned "No photos", but Ron took some anyway and then was reprimanded by a nice lady. I sat on the back bench while Ron walked dutifully around feigning interest.
It was a warm, breezy day and these areas were quite busy and plagued by the tacky tourist junk paraphernalia you see in all famous places.
We had lunch at Ristorante Il Portico and were seated beside four loud Italians who were butting their cigarettes on the sidewalk, as there were no ashtrays around. Still fun to be there though! Pizza for me and fettuccini for Ron. I won't even say the food is delicious anymore (just assume it is unless one of us gets something crappy).
We also walked along the Tiber to St. Peter's. We noticed lots of shops selling Pope and Catholic souvenirs.
Alas, I am reminded of the fact you can never find a washroom unless you go and buy a drink in a cafe somewhere, which always seems to defeat the purpose. Sadly, the strong smell of urine wafts through stairwells and pools in corners...also I was reminded that in Rome the pedestrian is not well respected. It remains a challenge trying to cross the road (which is always a life threatening event - how to get across the road without getting your butt clipped.
Well, I'll say goodnight because we are going back out...I can hear bells in the distance. It's a beautiful, ancient city and we're loving it...
First of all I must warn you....this blog isn't for the faint of heart (it's a long story today)! It's 7:30 pm as I'm writing this, and my feet are "cobble-stoned" out for the day. We started our day in the old Jewish quarter of Rome. Fascinating area of four square blocks where between 2,000-5,000 Jewish people once lived. We had a guided tour of the area and learned its sad, but fascinating history. On October 16, 1943, over 1000 Jewish people were rounded up here and sent to Auchwitz.
After our tour we went for a coffee and croissant at a place called Caffe del Portico. Ron went in to order and the guy said "Okay! Sit down! We were enjoying ourselves until we were suddenly swarmed by about 25 teenagers on a tour of some sort. They stood over our table bumping into us and dropping crumbs on us, so sadly we gulped down our coffee and left.
We went to Campo di Fiori and had freshly squeezed pomegranate juice which we have never had before. Delicious! We left there and proceeded to Piazza Navona to view the fountains and see the market. There is also a beautiful cathedral called St. Agnes in Agone which we went into. We were sternly warned "No photos", but Ron took some anyway and then was reprimanded by a nice lady. I sat on the back bench while Ron walked dutifully around feigning interest.
It was a warm, breezy day and these areas were quite busy and plagued by the tacky tourist junk paraphernalia you see in all famous places.
We had lunch at Ristorante Il Portico and were seated beside four loud Italians who were butting their cigarettes on the sidewalk, as there were no ashtrays around. Still fun to be there though! Pizza for me and fettuccini for Ron. I won't even say the food is delicious anymore (just assume it is unless one of us gets something crappy).
We also walked along the Tiber to St. Peter's. We noticed lots of shops selling Pope and Catholic souvenirs.
Alas, I am reminded of the fact you can never find a washroom unless you go and buy a drink in a cafe somewhere, which always seems to defeat the purpose. Sadly, the strong smell of urine wafts through stairwells and pools in corners...also I was reminded that in Rome the pedestrian is not well respected. It remains a challenge trying to cross the road (which is always a life threatening event - how to get across the road without getting your butt clipped.
Well, I'll say goodnight because we are going back out...I can hear bells in the distance. It's a beautiful, ancient city and we're loving it...
Saturday 18 May 2013
Walk Around the Forum
Good evening!
The place we are staying at is like a little monastery. Very clean and very plain. It's run by Sister Christina,a pleasant,no nonsense individual.
It's 8:10 pm here in Rome. I can't believe that as I sit here typing out a few thoughts, I am actually in this fascinating city once again. Although both of us were so tired after the long journey to get here, we still tried to make the best of the day before we crash tonight.
So, we went to the Forum, and on our way, we passed a fabulous market called Mercato di Campagna Amica, which is one of the things that makes this part of the world so great. There were all kinds of cheeses, wines, breads, pastries, meat and gigantic bags of salad greens that you could just buy by weight to bring home for supper. And of course, the ubiquitous fresh cut flowers...They even had a wine bar right in this market. Then we wandered down to the Roman Forum and spent some time in an amazing historical area. We left there and found a cute little cafe on the sidewalk, where we ordered fresh pasta, pizza and salad. While we were there, the Carabinieri (Italian police) roared up on their BMW motor bikes to stop for supper.
Tomorrow we plan to see a few areas such as Piazza Navona and Campo D' Fiori. Then there is also the old Jewish Quarter and a walk by the river Tiber. So much to take in...
The place we are staying at is like a little monastery. Very clean and very plain. It's run by Sister Christina,a pleasant,no nonsense individual.
It's 8:10 pm here in Rome. I can't believe that as I sit here typing out a few thoughts, I am actually in this fascinating city once again. Although both of us were so tired after the long journey to get here, we still tried to make the best of the day before we crash tonight.
So, we went to the Forum, and on our way, we passed a fabulous market called Mercato di Campagna Amica, which is one of the things that makes this part of the world so great. There were all kinds of cheeses, wines, breads, pastries, meat and gigantic bags of salad greens that you could just buy by weight to bring home for supper. And of course, the ubiquitous fresh cut flowers...They even had a wine bar right in this market. Then we wandered down to the Roman Forum and spent some time in an amazing historical area. We left there and found a cute little cafe on the sidewalk, where we ordered fresh pasta, pizza and salad. While we were there, the Carabinieri (Italian police) roared up on their BMW motor bikes to stop for supper.
Tomorrow we plan to see a few areas such as Piazza Navona and Campo D' Fiori. Then there is also the old Jewish Quarter and a walk by the river Tiber. So much to take in...
Welcome to Italy!
Hello everyone:
We arrived safely in Rome right on time. Beautiful, sunny day. We took a cab to Villa Rosa and are going to have a little rest before we start walking around. We will post some pictures as soon as we can!
We arrived safely in Rome right on time. Beautiful, sunny day. We took a cab to Villa Rosa and are going to have a little rest before we start walking around. We will post some pictures as soon as we can!
Friday 17 May 2013
The beginning of our journey ...
Hello everyone:
It's an exciting day for Ron and I because we finally got out of Calgary and on our way after our good friend Henny drove us to the airport! It's hard to believe our holiday is finally here. Our plane boards from Toronto Pearson to Leonardo DaVinci airport in Rome at 18:45, so we're getting ready for our long flight to Rome. We arrive at 10:20 am tomorrow.I will post an update tomorrow after our first day of wandering the streets in the city of Rome...
It's an exciting day for Ron and I because we finally got out of Calgary and on our way after our good friend Henny drove us to the airport! It's hard to believe our holiday is finally here. Our plane boards from Toronto Pearson to Leonardo DaVinci airport in Rome at 18:45, so we're getting ready for our long flight to Rome. We arrive at 10:20 am tomorrow.I will post an update tomorrow after our first day of wandering the streets in the city of Rome...
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)