Hello Friends and Family:
Today was our last day at Villa Rosa with Sister Christina. At breakfast, we discovered some of the guests missing. We learned that they had risen early to beat the crowds (approximately 40,000 people) to St. Peter's Square to hear the Pope speak for about 2 hours. Apparently he does this every Wednesday, and then drives through the mob in the Pope Mobile to greet people.
We left Villa Rosa and took a cab to Roma Termini station to catch a train to Naples. We arrived at the station and paid 15 Euro for a ten minute drive and two pieces of luggage.
The train station was buzzing with activity and people were criss-crossing in every direction. Our tickets purchased, we walked down to Chef Express to get coffee, all the while keeping our eyes peeled, as we were aware that we could be beaten or robbed at any moment, (as everyone kept telling us). "Watch out for gypsies, tramps, thieves and pickpockets lurking about!" We were warned they could throw a blanket over our heads to confuse us. Nothing like appearing at the station looking like two scared rabbits.
That said, we did observe several, dark haired plumpish women in black clothing and gold jewellery circulating through the crowds with plastic cups and very sad faces. Some, wore colourful clothing and had parked themselves strategically in different places. They sat on the ground with backs against the walls - water bottle on one side, leather purse on the other side, and plastic cup for alms collection placed just so. Ron noticed one lady who had been very busy collecting alms - meet up with a colleague for a lively visit over coffee and snacks at Chef Express. Soon the visit ended, and each one went off to the assigned area to work the crowds yet again. Unfortunately they do forget sometimes, that they have already approached you. Maybe they are hoping you have a poor memory! Alas, we stayed on guard, but suddently I looked down and my suitcase was missing (just kidding)...
Soon the time rolled around for us to get on the train which took one hour and ten minutes at 300 kms per hour to get us to Naples. The scenery from the window was beautiful - lush, and green with hazy, purplish mountains in the background.
We arrived in Naples, and I could feel my anxiety level rise a bit, at the memory of being ripped off in the train station here once before by someone who seemed to be "helping us." Next, we needed a cab to take us to our new B&B for the next four days - a new destination called Casa Chiara. Ron had a vigorous negotiation session with the driver who, yelling and waving his arms around wanted the "fair price" of 25 euro. We were told it should not cost one cent more than 12 euro. We paid 18. Either that or spend the night at the Naples train station. So, the driver wove his tiny car through gritty streets, dense traffic and past graffiti stained walls. In dismay, I looked around and wondered why we decided to come and actually STAY here this time. Vespas and scooters zigzagged willy-nilly through traffic. Scooters drove by with child in front, Dad in the middle, and Mom on the back. No helmets noted.
Naples has a very different personality from Rome. Rome seems to me like the beautiful, exquisite sister, and when you come to Naples you feel like you've been introduced to her wild, dark, and adventurous sister!
Happily we arrived at Casa Chiara and were greeted by a tiny, old lady named Rosa who has a lovely, kind face, a soft voice, beautiful smile, and who struggled with English. Rosa took us on a tour of her home which was just unbelievable. It's very old, with exquisite antiques and silver and lovely pictures everywhere. She showed us our room, and opened the doors to our balcony from which Mt. Vesuvius loomed ahead across the Bay of Naples. Also plainly visible was the Isle of Capri. We were so happy with this and then she escorted us to the roof top patio! We are the only guests in this home right now.
We ask Rosa where we could go for lunch and she directed us down the street to Regine Pizzeria Ristorante. I asked Rosa if the neighborhood was safe in the evening. In broken English, she tells me it is, but that I should just remove my jewellery. Anyway, off we go to the Pizzeria. Bright, green walls, and a steady stream of people coming and going. I observe a man making pizzas at lightening speed. The pizza was great, along with the service. The place seemed a little unusual in that there were a variety of loud, speaking men traipsing by us from time to time into what seemed to be the kitchen. I feel a little skeptical, as this is the place where I'm supposed to have a cooking lesson (arranged by Rosa), but Ron encourages me onward. He says he's sure the guys will just be thinking things like, "I wonder if she drives a vespa" , or "I wonder which church she goes to" - you know, things like that. As we exit, I met a very large man who was seated outside the restaurant. He's the owner and his name is Vincenza."Oh," he exclaims, "you are from Casa Chiara! Why you not say earlier?" I mention the cooking lesson, and he tells me to come on Friday between 2 and 4:00 pm, and he'll teach me everything about the kitchen. Of course, Ron will be sitting there eating pizza the whole time I'm having my lesson.
We stopped at another cafe called Gastronoma on a corner with bright, red tables and ordered two coffees. One thing we observed - not everyone speaks English here. All around we watchedbustling traffic, and tooting scooters trying to maneuver through the teensiest of spots.
We left the cafe and started back to Casa Chiara, and were caught in a downpour on our way. The evening was windy and grey - but when we arrived back at Casa Chiara, opened the windows and looked out at the view from our balcony which just took our breath away.
It's dark and cloudy with lightning to the south of the bay past Sorrento...
No comments:
Post a Comment