Friday 14 June 2013

The Market at Valbonne and the Village of Plascassier

Bonjour Family and Friends!
Today we awoke to the sound of tables being dragged across the cobblestone outside our window, in preparation for the weekly market every Friday morning in Valbonne. You could hear voices calling out, and banging and clanging noises, and it all occurred just the way we were told it would. When we went downstairs to leave the building and go out to the street, we found many tables filled with vegetables of all kinds, lined up just outside our door, but at least we were able to exit without any difficulty.
Since we no longer had the luxury of Mireille's lovely breakfasts awaiting us on her sunny terrace, we walked across Place Des Arcades to Le Jdeed Cafe (it is a strange spelling), for our morning coffee and croissants.
We sat there for awhile observing the bustle all around us, and talking about how fascinating these markets are, and especially this one. Being such a large market, it was forced to wind its way through the narrow streets of Valbonne. As usual, there was everything - food and clothing, hand-crafted jewellery, underwear, kitchen supplies, fruits, vegetables, and even someone demonstrating the cutting up of zucchinis and carrots with a new, slick mandoline.
When we had exhausted every corner of the market, we decided to drive to the village of Plascassier, which is really a stones throw from Valbonne. We were going with a specific purpose, and that was to find the vacation home of Paul and Julia Child. Believe it or not, this provençal home can actually be rented - which I think is cool, and if you admire Julia Child like I do, then you might be interested in seeing the place where she wrote some of 'Mastering the Art of French Cooking', the two-volume masterpiece written while staying at La Pitchoune (which means 'The Little One'). This was the name of her home on the property at Domaine de Bramafam in the hills above Plascassier. Mastering The Art of French Cooking was one of the most popular and influential cookbooks ever published, and it introduced French cooking to millions of home cooks in America during the 1960s and ’70s.
After reading, 'My Life in France', the story of Julia Child, I knew the area was called Domaine de Bramafam, and also that it was located somewhere in the countryside, just outside the village of Plascassier. The problem is, if you are not renting it, the location just isn't out there for the tourist to find. I was sure that eventually we would find a local who might know something about Julia and where this vacation home may be located.
An interesting note is that the average French person knows nothing of Julia Child. They've never even heard of her. If you ask, "Excusez moi, do you know who Julia Child is?" The first thing they ask you to do is repeat the question. Then everyone gets the same quizzical look. They'll even go and inquire of their friends, and then everybody shakes their heads. "She was a chef, you say? We have our own chefs. Many chefs, many chefs here!" You just can't believe it! Julia Child unknown in France? But it's true...
We drove by a cute little restaurant in Plascassier called Auberge de Provence in Place St. Donat. We decided to have lunch first, before we went on our quest. We thoroughly enjoyed our lunch. We had the friendliest waiter named Patrick, who turned out to be the owner. He told us a few things about himself including the fact that he had been born in the Loire Valley, and had spent 12 years in Paris learning the restaurant business. It seems like at least half of an enjoyable experience of eating out, depends on who is waiting on your table. We could hear Patrick happily singing in the kitchen. I think he was waiter and chef. We tried the salad nicoise. I should add that most meals are paired with a glass of rosé wine from the Provençal region, unless otherwise stated. Ron wanted to try some foie gras, so he ordered it as an appetizer. Foie Gras is a food product made from the liver of a duck or goose that has been specially fattened. I must admit I only tasted it, but I was surprised it had a nutty flavour and I actually didn't mind it (of course you must be aware there are many people who are vigorously opposed to the force feeding of ducks and geese to fatten their livers up quickly).
Just before we left Auberge de ProvenceI restaurant, I decided to throw the question out there one more time. I asked Patrick, "Do you know who Julia Child is?" I waited anxiously. I was hoping that he might be the ONE whose eyes might light up at the recognition of her name. "Nooooo" he shook his head. I gave up, deflated. Then Ron asked, "Do you know of 'Domaine de Bramafam?" "Oh, oui, oui!" he exclaimed, and proceeded to tell us how to get to the right area at least.
Just after lunch, we walked around the tiny village of Plascassier. We loved how beautiful and rustic it was. It was peaceful and quiet, and there was a cool breeze. A big cat sat perched on a blue window sill, barely able to keep his eyes open. We came upon a little church called Notre Dame des Fleurs and went inside.
Then we got into the little Renault and started out on our drive down the Domaine de Bramafam road to try and guess which house had belonged to the Child's, based on clues mainly from the Internet. We stopped and asked a few people in this very district, and everyone did the same thing, they shook their heads, "Non!"
It seemed odd that the neighbours wouldn't know about a property in their own area which is rented as a vacation spot. But, it was okay...I had been able to come as close as anyone could without knowing the house number. Another interesting note is that the village of Plascassier was home to Edith Piaf, also known as 'The Little Sparrow'. She was one of France's greatest international singing stars from 1930 to 1963, when she died of liver cancer at age 49. Her fascinating life story is told in a movie called, "Le Vie En Rose". I would like to have seen her home also, but you just can't do everything...
So we left this most beautiful area of Plascassier and started towards the Parfumerie Fragonard in Grasse, but the traffic was so heavy, we turned around at the first opportunity and went back to the apartment. We decided perhaps I could visit Fragonard tomorrow in St. Paul de Vence.
When we arrived back at the apartment, Ron went across the square and down the next street to buy a baguette. He noticed there were quite a few varieties of baguettes while waiting in line. Finally his turn came, and rather than trying to speak French, he just resorted to "Parlez-vous anglais?". The shop lady immediately said, " Oui. A leetle." He asked what was the difference between the varieties of baguettes. Naturally this would require a detailed response, which probably made the person behind want to kick him. However, the lady proceeded to describe the difference in great detail, AND in French. She gave a demonstration by squeezing each of two baguettes. Ron was forced to stand and listen to a lengthy speech, since he had asked the question. Thankfully her explanation made things crystal clear, and Ron chose the darker baguette in her left hand. He then came back with our snack, and declared he had chosen the "traditionnel."
After spending a few hours in the apartment, listening to children playing and screaming as well as the dull roar of adult voices in the Place Des Arcades, we decided to go out and for a walk in the cool evening air. One thing you can always do here if you find yourself at loose ends? Go for a walk through the streets of a medieval village...

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